I get seasick. It is something I have always battled with. So stepping onto the 'Whale Whisperer' docked in Gansbaai harbour I was comforted by the knowledge that I had come prepared. It is not every day you get a chance to see the Southern Right whale in its natural habitat, and I did not want to be nursing a queasy stomach when I did...

The Whale Whisperer is the first boat in South Africa to be designed specifically for whale watching. Boasting an onboard toilet — which hopefully I would not need — an observation deck, PA system and even a hydrophone, it is a comfortable ride and obviously seaworthy…

After a briefing from skipper Wilfred Chivell — a legendary local expert and conservationist — we are all handed life jackets before stepping on board and within minutes we are bulleting out to the open waters and an encounter with the Southern Right whales.

I have been on trips like this before and seen nothing. It is the chance you take, so promises of hordes of Southern Rights were taken with a pinch of salt…

The promises, however, were not empty and before long I am watching in awe as not one, nor two, but three adults are frolicking (flirting, according to our on-board marine biologist, but why make it dirty?) in the water about 10 feet in front of me!

The crew never ventures closer than 50 meters from the whales — operators are by law not allowed to get any closer so as not to harass or chase the animals — but the whales frequently venture in on their own accord… and today they seem curious. It is an incredible experience.

As we move on towards the Great White Shark cage diving boats — a special treat on these trips — I notice that one of our group is looking decidedly green and again I pat myself on the back for being so well-prepared. It probably does not help that another in our group is making 'vomit faces', but my tablets have made me decidedly relaxed and I do not rise to the bait…

The sea gods are smiling on us as a Great White is spotted the minute we arrive at the boats. I immediately pencil this in as my next trip as a massive Great White surfaces to the screams of the divers in the cage! Sleek, black-eyed and utterly devoid of emotion — seeing these sharks so close has to go down as one of the most incredible experiences of my life and it's a great way to cap off the trip. In all we see three Great Whites before heading back to shore, much to the relief of my sickly travel companion, who now at least has some company in another sufferer… thankfully not me.

The ride back gives you time to reflect on the experience as you jettison across the waves, the sea-air blasting in your face. Knowing that I am on my way back to the Arabella Western Cape Hotel and Spa for another night of relaxation only makes it sweeter.

Just remember those seasick tablets…

    For more info
  • The Dyer Island cruise is a new trip offered by the Arabella Western Cape Hotel and Spa. Guests are transported out to Kleinbaai — we boarded at Gansbaai because of a low tide — where Whale Whisperer skipper and local conservationist Wilfred Chivell, greets and briefs visitors.
  • The trip, which lasts around two hours, runs out towards Pearly Beach, where the crew generally find most of their Southern Right whales, and then out towards Dyer Island. There is also a good chance you can spot Humpback whales during this stretch of water, where African penguins, Cape cormorants and other species are common.

    Neighbouring Dyer Island is Geyser Rock, home to 60 000 Cape Fur Seals. The stretch of water between the two islands is Shark Alley, which is visited to view the seals. The colony is thriving and there is always lots of activity, especially around November time when the tiny pups are born. The trips also include a special visit to the White Shark cage diving boats and the crew promises a Great White shark on 80 percent of their trips. For more information visit Dyer Island Cruises.

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