When my boss suggested I spend the weekend in the winelands village of Wellington, I raised an eyebrow somewhat sceptically. Wellington, as I knew it, was a road through a sleepy town on the way to somewhere else. As it turned out, I was completely wrong.

My partner and I sneak out of work early on Friday afternoon and head for the Wellington winelands. As we step out of the car at Diemersfontein, we are hit by a wall of heat and it takes a few moments to acclimatise to the warm, still and peaceful afternoon.

An English country garden

We hurriedly check into our guest house – a quaint mixture of old-fashioned elegance and modern convenience. Set in an English country garden, complete with rose beds, azaleas, lavender and manicured lawns, our comfortable two-bedroomed cottage is the epitome of old-school English charm. With tasteful floral prints, freestanding wardrobes washed in pale yellow and a graceful spacious bathroom, we are tempted to idle away the afternoon in this comfortable suite.

But we overcome this temptation and head off into the country for a couple of hours of wine tasting - a sensory overload of lush vineyards, vibrant bougainvilleas, delicate aromas and, of course, a smorgasbord of tastes.

The newly renovated cellars at Nabygelegen mix the old with the new – a modern cellar with a hint of nostalgia. This, together with the cobbled roads and stately manor house satisfies my romantic notion of what a wine farm should be. After a brief stop at Doolhof, we pop into the cosy and intimate Oude Wellington. We chat like old friends with the owner Rolf Schumacher over a few (too many) glasses of wine, bubbly, grappa and brandy.

to.dine.for

Back at Diemersfontein, the estate has a wedding booked every weekend and this is no exception. To avoid the lively wedding party, we head into the village for dinner. A new addition to the Wellington dining scene, to.dine.for, would hold its own in a bustling metropolis with its trendy décor and gourmet food.

An intimate restaurant which mixes modern art with old black-and-white photographs, to.dine.for is surprisingly affordable. It also offers a separate ‘children’s section’ at the back, while next door there is a to.dine.for deli which is open until nine at night and makes scrumptious cakes.

Already loving the restaurant, I’m not at all disappointed by the food. Having finally managed to decipher the menu – which is a strange blend of English and Afrikaans – I settle on the phyllo pastry parcel for a starter and the vegetarian lasagne for mains.

It is a good choice. The parcel is a delicate blend of Mediterranean vegetables and camembert cheese, surrounded artistically by fresh leaves, sprigs of spring onion, cherry tomatoes and sliced peppadews. The chef, Dawid, has created a delightfully light lasagne. Without any cheese or béchamel sauce, it is simply layers of lasagne tossed in olive oil and parmesan, interspersed with lightly fried snap peas, green beans, olives and tomatoes.

For every season…

After the feast the night before it is tempting to spend the morning lazing in bed, but a new day brings with it new wine tasting and dining opportunities. But not before sampling the decadent breakfast at Diemersfontein’s restaurant – Seasons.

We choose a table on the balcony and although it promises to be a scorcher, the air is crisp and refreshing. As we eat croissants and drink freshly squeezed orange juice, we look over the peaceful dam and paddocks below. Although Diemersfontein is situated just off a highway, it is surprisingly sheltered from the noise and the estate is large enough for you to forget that the road even exists.

All the charm of Tuscany

After a morning of vigorous wine tasting — which involves a chocolatey Pinotage at Diemersfontein and a deliciously dry Port at Wamakersvallei — we stop off at D’Olives Restaurant for lunch. Set in an idyllic sun-drenched courtyard, this restaurant offers all the charm of Tuscany in the middle of Wellington. With creepers on the walls, ornate wrought-iron work and a Mediterranean-style menu, this is not what you expect from a small Afrikaans town ‘in the middle of nowhere’.

I have a generous helping of spinach and feta quiche, while my partner tries the beef carpaccio on French loaf with sundried tomatoes and sweet chilli sauce. This wholesome fare is not quite as artistically prepared as at to.dine.for, but it works well for lunch, and gives us the strength for an afternoon of yet more strenuous wine tasting.

Thoroughly satisfied, and a good two kilograms heavier, we head back to Cape Town raving about the charms of Wellington – never again will I think of it simply as a road on the way to somewhere else.


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