You shouldn't need to find a reason to get away for a night or two. A change in scenery does wonders for your spirits, is good for your marriage and creates memories that linger long after the drudgery of daily life hits you when you return. But if I have to be honest, the reason we planned a trip around Stellenbosch, conveniently situated only 45 minutes from Cape Town, is the Rupert Museum.
We had heard good reports from my parents. 'Amazing,' they said. 'You should go.' So we did. It was the perfect weather for browsing around an art museum - blustery and wet. When Gavin and I sheepishly explained that we didn't have any cash on us, the curator smiled understandingly.
'Don't worry - you don't have to pay,' he said. I suppose it's not as if the Rupert family (they of luxury goods company Richemont fame) need our money. Still, it was a kind gesture.
And what a collection of art it is. Anton and Huberte Rupert were prodigious in acquiring work of only the finest quality, with the result that the museum showcases the best of South African artists like Maggie Laubser, Irma Stern and Jean Welz. The 350 or so artworks on display can be described as the premier collection of SA art from the period 1940 to 1970.
I particularly liked the work of sculptor Anton van Wouw, whose work I had never before been exposed to. His rendering of two Boer soldiers who have received bad news, aptly named Slegte Nuus, captures the anguish of war and bereavement. We also spent a while taking in the work of Rodin, feasting our eyes on his sculptures and drawings.
We were also struck by the modesty of the building. My husband, being an architect, felt that the space was perhaps a bit bland, but I thought that Huberte had made the right decision in choosing a design that does not detract from the art on display - something humble and unpretentious that perhaps reflected her Afrikaner roots.
Having worked up an appetite, we strolled down Dorp Street, waiting to see which restaurant would tempt our tastebuds most. Although I was quite keen to find out what an 'Akkerburger' tasted like at a corner pub, Gavin made the final choice of a buffet lunch at Cupcake. This gaily decorated eatery is perfect for a kitchen tea or birthday party, with lots of fun colours and interesting objects brightening the walls. For a modest R88, we had quiche, salad and rolls, while our ten-month-old baby Samuel endured the waitress pinching his cheeks.
We checked in at our guesthouse, 5 Seasons, located in a trendy part of town in Van der Stel Street. The German owners, Simone and Ralf Rumpf, opened their doors in 2006 and since then have seen a steady stream of visitors. The weekend we visited there were about 14 guests in total - from Scotland, Australia, Germany and a local couple celebrating their anniversary - not bad going for early November. Clearly travellers are taking them up on their offer to use the guesthouse as a base to explore the surrounding winelands.
Dinner took the form of a three-course meal at Bodega restaurant, situated in the picturesque setting of Dornier Wine Estate. We had heard about the fresh white asparagus that the restaurant was serving during the month of October, and were hoping there would still be some left in early November. Thankfully, there was - although not the thick-as-three-of-your-fingers variety, but we didn't mind.
With a name like Naas Pienaar, you'd think that the head chef would be a rugby player, but he has instead turned his attention to cuisine, which is a great asset for Bodega. What we liked about the menu is that it changes on a weekly, sometimes daily, basis as the dishes are all planned around what produce is in season. 'Besides,' sous-chef Bonnita Court confided, 'Naas would get extremely bored otherwise!'
What impressed us with the restaurant (apart from the food) was the eclectic yet irrepressibly buoyant decor. Co-owner Francesca Dornier has clearly been influenced by West Africa's ochre palette and this is reflected in everything from the wall colours to the light fittings. Of course, none of this really interested our Samuel.
All he wanted to do was get out of his high chair and explore. He took great interest in a nearby diner's handbag and was quite put out when she didn't want to share its contents with him. By the time we were tucking into our panna cotta and chocolate fondant, the little man was long past Gina Ford's recommended bedtime, and was howling with protest on the way home. Only after about ten minutes of the reassuring purr of the car engine did he finally surrender to sleep.
Silly parents for thinking going to bed late would buy us more time in the morning. At 5am baby was awake, and no amount of consoling from Dad would convince him otherwise. By the time we made our way downstairs, we were amped for a full-on spread - and Simone and her team did not disappoint. My omelette was wonderfully light and fluffy, and we were given a seemingly never-ending supply of toast.
The inclement weather prevented us from continuing our journey of discovery in town. We passed by the church where my parents married, known as the Moederkerk, and admired the many Dylan Lewis sculptures of wildlife which animate the town's pavements. One weekend seemed too short a time to uncover all of Stellenbosch's delights, but we nevertheless left feeling satisfied that at least we had experienced a taste of all the town has to offer.
For more info?
- The Rupert Museum is open week days from 9.30am to 1pm and from 2pm to 4pm. On Saturdays it is open from 10am to 1pm. Entrance is R20 for adults and R10 for students and pensioners. For more info, phone 021 888 3344 or visit www.rupertmuseum.co.za.
- 5 Seasons guesthouse: Call 021 886 6159 or book online right now!
- Find more Stellenbosch accommodation and book online.
- Bodega is open for lunch daily from 12pm to 5pm and for dinner Thursday to Saturday from 6pm to 9.30pm. To make a reservation, phone 021 880 0557 or e-mail bodega@dornier.co.za.

