Article By: Courtesy Mon, 28 Jan 2008 12:00

A certain travel brochure puts it thus: "Every visit to Knysna is an adventure." And so it is, especially in peak season when bumper-to-bumper Gauteng traffic and shuffling crowds can trigger an adrenaline rush second to none.

First things first, then: Knysna is no longer the drowsy village it used to be, a refuge for rat-race escapees, tie-dye T-shirt makers and aspiring artists ? the Garden Route's tourist boom has put an end to that illusion. Although there's no immediate beach to call its own, Knysna reigns as the undisputed capital of the Garden Route.

What the town lacks in sea frontage it makes up with an ethereal lagoon and ancient forests, and a Georgian and Victorian atmosphere you won't find in other Garden Route towns. Although the town has outgrown itself, the surrounding area still offers tranquillity. If this is what you're looking for, the best self-catering beds can be found away from the centre, either along or above the lagoon, or buried deep under the forest canopy.

Buffalo Valley Bush Lodges, Knysna
Snapshot: A 150ha private reserve with three self-catering lodges
Where: 17km from Knysna
Sleeps: 4,5,6
Equipped: yes
Linen: yes
Towels: yes
Fireplace: yes
Braai: yes
Meals available: no
Pet-friendly: no
Activities: walking, fishing, game viewing, whale watching, mountain biking, birdwatching, restaurants, canoeing, swimming, stargazing, museums & galleries
Rate guide: R135pp - R200pp

As the brochure so correctly states, this is "Knysna's ultimate coastal bush retreat" ? the nearest thing to a game lodge experience, but available at a fraction of the usual cost (and minus the Big Five, of course).

Buffalo Valley Bush Lodges offers three totally secluded and stylish self-catering timber lodges, on a beautiful 150ha private reserve bordering the Goukamma Nature and Marine Reserve. Judged on setting, privacy, general standard and value for money, they can't be faulted.

Fully equipped for four to six happy weekenders, each lodge is uniquely appointed in forest, river or vlei surrounds. Shaded by indigenous milkwood trees (several sprouting from the wraparound deck), Vlei Lodge (sleeps five) gazes upon grassland and a small vlei of reeds, birds and croaking frogs. Perched on a sunny hill among trees and grassland, River Lodge (sleeps six) has a dramatic outlook over the Goukamma River and Reserve.

Hidden away somewhere between the two, Forest Lodge (sleeps four) is an elongated timber abode buried under a thick tangle of gorgeous milkwood and a pebble's throw from a private jetty. Our favourite? Tough call as all are special ? but pressed for an answer, we would probably opt for River Lodge in winter and Vlei and Forest in summer.

All are superbly kitted for year-round comfort: languid decks with deck chairs and braai areas, all-wood interiors with fireplaces, reed blinds, eco-friendly gas and solar lighting, candles and storm lanterns, comfortable beds (some draped by mosquito nets), ensuite main bedrooms, plus lots of other nice touches.

With more than enough to do and see, you'll be hard pressed to venture beyond Buffalo Valley's front gate. Canoeing (the river mouth is just a paddle away and canoes are provided), swimming, fishing (catch-and-release encouraged), bird and animal spotting (lynx, grey buck, otters, bushpigs, etc), free access to Goukamma?s hikes, it's all for the taking. Alternatively, flop into your deckchair and with Pink Gin in hand watch the surrounding fynbos hills turn to gold.

Lazy Leopard Forest Retreat, Knysna
Snapshot: Forest setting with two romantic 'bush huts' and a house
Where: 15km from Knysna
Sleeps: 2,2,8
Equipped: yes
Linen: yes
Towels: yes
Fireplace: yes (free wood provided)
Braai: yes
Meals available: no
Pet-friendly: by request
Activities: birdwatching, watersports, walking, hiking, mountain biking, museums & galleries, restaurants
Rate guide: R175pp - R300pp

Situated just off the scenic Rheenendal country road, Lazy Leopard offers three very appealing options: two romantic 'bush huts' called Forest Moon and Forest Honey and the larger Blue Hills Cottage.

Forest Moon and Forest Honey are open-plan, with queen-size beds, mini kitchens and bathrooms encased in glass. Added to the mix in each is a fireplace and TV with DVD player (no SABC reception here), which means you won't be deprived of any familiar home comforts.

True to name, Forest Moon nestles at the edge of the forest, while Forest Honey is perched near the cliff edge. From your romantic hideaway, it's a short stroll through the forest to a lovely pool and amazing view. Moving along a bit, Blue Hills Cottage sits alone above a contorted valley of thick forest. Fronted by a most pleasant deck with drop-off views, the layout is airy and characterful.

Timber floors with rugs, exposed roof beams, comfy forest furniture, an open fireplace and many other wholesome touches contribute to its relaxed country persona. If there's a crowd of you, additional beds can be found tucked away in a quaint attic loft, accessed via a timber stairway to the side of the cottage. Great cottages, friendly host and decent rates.

Keurbooms Conservancy, Knysna
Snapshot: Nature conservancy with a variety of farm and wilderness accommodation
Where: 55km from Knysna
Sleeps: various options
Equipped: yes
Linen: yes (cottages)
Towels: yes (cottages)
Fireplace: several cottages
Braai: yes
Meals available: no
Pet-friendly: by request
Activities: stargazing, mountain biking, horse riding, spring flowers, swimming, walking, fishing, birdwatching, 4x4 trail, hiking, farm animals
Rate guide: various rates, depending on venue

The Middle Keurbooms Conservancy is tucked away in a remote corner that many of us have probably passed through at least once in our lives on our way to Plett and Knysna, via the tortuous and beautiful Prince Alfred Pass ? built by pass-builder extraordinaire, Thomas Bain, and his band of merry slaves.

As a declared conservancy, the focus is on the preservation of this sprawling wilderness area, which is a treat for anyone seeking an authentic immersion in nature, but without sacrificing too many home comforts, as several of the conservancy members offer comfortable accommodation.

Set more or less in the hub of things, on the outskirts of a tiny hamlet called De Vlugt, is Outeniqua Trout Lodge (R200pp-R300pp). On offer are four beautifully appointed and superbly kitted log chalets, all of which sleep six. Apart from the mountain and river setting (walks, swimming, etc), fly-fishing (rainbow and brown trout) is the big attraction here, with three dams and two rivers available.

Ambling down the road brings you to a horse-breeding farm called More Equine Breeders, which has a single secluded timber cabin (R250-R300/unit), shaded by Keurboom trees and sleeping two adults and a pair of young offspring. Pony rides for the kids and more challenging outrides for the more experienced through unspoilt mountain fynbos, is More's magnet.

For more nature of the wild kind, Williamsburg Farm lies in its own special valley. While parts of this 3000ha farm is dedicated to sheep and cattle, the rest is unadulterated wilderness. With plenty on offer, in the way of small game and birdlife, 30km of 4x4 trails (try them on a mountain bike!), pleasant walks along streams, brilliant night skies and utter peace and quiet, you won't be bored.

Plus, there are two comfortable Cape cottages (R160pp-R220pp) to enjoy it all from. And then, heading back towards De Vlugt, Keurbooms River Game Trails is a 2000ha private game park with established game and a tented camp and secluded chalets on the drawing-board.

This private nature park encompasses an array of landscapes and vegetation, including indigenous forest, fynbos and grassland, while the activities span everything from hiking among antelope, birdwatching, trout fishing, tubing and mountain biking. All in all, Keurbooms Conservancy sounds like an awesome alternative to Plett and Knysna seasonal throngs!

For more information and booking enquiries for the above properties, visit www.budget-getaways.co.za