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I have many memories of Knysna in July, from overindulging in oysters and champagne after a strenuous mountain bike through the lush forests of the area, to waving at celebrity Will Smith (the TV maths guy) while running the Featherbed Trail run — a pristine place to run if there ever was one.
Yes, I am a regular to the crowd-pulling Oyster Festival, but I thought it would be a great idea to visit pre-fest.
Don't get me wrong, the Heineken storm-in-a-teacup party after the marathon is delightfully festive, the oyster shucking competitions and Mardi Gras (eat as many gourmet oysters as you can) is worth every penny, and while the general mayhem of frozen bodies huddling next to fires before the marathon is just as appealing (for crazy people like me anyway), in my old age I honestly could do without the crowds and the tussle for a little piece of paradise.
So with floods threatening the Cape, I took a random Friday off in June and headed to Knysna with a jam-packed itinerary ahead of me.
Day one
First stop — lunch at Sirocco. Situated on the water's edge of Knysna's trendy Thesen Harbour, it's separate from the hustle of town and those jam-packed restaurants. But naturally on an ordinary day in June nothing in Knysna is busy (cue sigh of relief).
Sirocco is a vibey lunch and dinner time venue, a meeting place for those who appreciate relaxed sophistication, cutting-edge design and innovative food.
My Smoked Salmon Wonton Stack — layers of smoked Norwegian salmon, rocket, fennel hollandaise and crispy wonton served with a chilli and paw-paw dressing — and glass of chilled white wine, was just enough to fill the gap.
Next, check in time. My partner and I booked into The Moorings. And no you haven't heard of it, it's brand spanking new.
Situated along the banks of the Knysna Lagoon, and very close to Loerie Park (where all the sporting activities during the festival start from), it's an extremely convenient location, with the bonus being it's secluded.
The apartments are top-notch self-catering units simply perfect for a family weekend away. Ultra-modern, they sport all the latest fixtures and fittings and, of course, balcony and braai space.
'...A horribly romantic experience...'
Just when we were getting settled into our cosy apartment, it was time for our trip on the Paddle Cruiser.
The Paddle Cruiser offers both lunch time (12.30pm departure) and evening (6.15pm departure) cruises, and is the only vessel of its kind in South Africa.
The steely-blue water of the lagoon was still until the wheels of the vessel started to churn, chugging along towards The Heads as the sun slipped into the clouds. On the way back the stars twinkled overhead. A horribly romantic experience.
Dinner at Cruise Café followed. This trendy restaurant is situated very close to the Knysna Waterfront and is known for its fresh seafood and modern-styled cuisine, and of course exceptional views of the Knysna Lagoon, both day and night.
Day two
The weather had finally followed us to Knysna and so we had to cancel our Featherbed Eco Experience, which I will have to venture back for.
This four-hour excursion to Featherbed (across the lagoon on the other Knysna Head), starts with a 25-minute ferry cruise, where a local guide shares fascinating tales about the Lagoon, the early shipping industry and oyster cultivation. On arrival at the reserve visitors can enjoy a drive to the top of the Western Head in a 4x4 unimog vehicle, stopping at a magnificent view point en route. After the drive, your specialist guide will take you on an optional 2.2 kilometre downhill walk which is meant to be spectacular. Ah well, next time...
The 'Island of Bread'
Instead we huddled in the warmth of Mon Petit Pain, a local breakfast spot which is a sister to the ultra popular Ile de Païn or 'Island of Bread' run by Liezie Mulder, dynamic chef and author, and baker Markus Färbinger.
At Mon Petit Pain pastries and crusty breads rule the roost, while the atmosphere smacks of creativity. After ordering about four of their cappuccinos, we scoffed down their to-die-for muesli with fresh fruit and something resembling apple strudel. Lovely. Then we managed space for the 'David' — a slice of their signature bread topped with creamy eggs and salty bacon, served on a bread board. Delicious.
Well-oiled for the day we headed out to the Wild Oats Farmer's Market in Sedgefield, which is about a 10-minute drive, and is open every Saturday morning
Locals browsed the market which offers lots of fresh produce and homemade tasties, many of them clad in Wellington's and Scottish caps, trying to avoid mud puddles. It felt like we had been transported to some country district in the UK, especially in the rainy weather... But with over 60 stalls of the finest local farm produce, it's confidently an authentic taste of the Garden Route.
Read more on page two...