While the Lowveld area surrounding the town of Hoedspruit may be more famous for its Big Five rather than its forests, safari fanatics looking for something slightly different will feel right at home in the tented camp at Otter’s Den.

Hidden amongst the trees on an island in the Blyde River, about 10 kilometres after it leaves the famous gorge, Otter’s Den is a breath of fresh air. Gone are the scheduled activities and over-attendant staff so beloved of the nearby private game reserves — instead you’ll find a genuinely warm welcome, comfortable accommodation and a place where you can simply kick back and relax.

There are just four rustic stone, wood and thatch chalets at Otter’s Den, generously spaced along sandy paths through the forest to ensure you have all the peace and quiet you could hope for. The rooms are basic, but comfortable and each has a private deck, en-suite bathroom and a wonderful outside shower. That said, don’t come expecting the lap of luxury — if you’re the kind of person who demands a chocolate on the pillow at bedtime then this probably isn’t the place for you. Generous home-cooked meals are served at the communal outdoor dining table where guests from around the world can spend the evening drinking and chatting.

Situated about 20 minutes drive from Hoedspruit airport (an hour's flight from Johannesburg), Otter’s Den is just a stone’s throw from the Kruger National Park (making it an excellent base for day trips into the park), but it's as far removed from the bushveld as you could possibly imagine. Boasting more tree species than the whole of Britain, the lush 50 hectare island is an ecologist’s paradise, literally teeming with plants and birds.

Wynand Uys, the affable and knowledgeable owner, will happily take you for a stroll around the island, pointing out why certain trees grow in particular areas, how plants defend themselves against hungry antelope as well as where the resident hippo and crocodile like to hang out. Although the island isn’t a game reserve, there’s certainly plenty of it about. A family of hippo spend their days under the suspension bridge (slightly off-putting while you’re trying to cross it) while crocodile frequently cruise silently up and down the river. When you’re not out exploring the island you can relax on the deck and soak up the quiet of the forest, broken only by birdsong and the occasional hippo grunt.

Although most visitors come to this corner of the Lowveld in search of the Big Five, the area also boasts a number of other attractions worth visiting.

Take a drive...
The scenic Panorama route, one of South Africa’s most famous attractions, starts north of the Blyde River canyon and skirts its western edge, affording fantastic views over the canyon (the third largest in the world) and the plains of the Lowveld. With sheer cliffs and deep gorges, the landscape is truly breathtaking and the scenic beauty is marred only by occasional over-populated and under-developed villages where much of the land has been left bare by over-grazing.

Nonetheless, the Panorama route takes in some fantastic scenery and the route has been well developed by Mpumalanga tourism. The sheer drop off the escarpment reveals the picturesque view of the Three Rondawels — rounded peaks shaped like three traditional huts. A similarly panoramic view is found further along the canyon at God’s Window where, presuming the cloud or heat haze don’t get in the way, the view along the length of the escarpment is breathtaking. Another popular stop-off is the famous Bourke’s Luck potholes — circular depressions in the rocky riverbed formed by thousands of years of swirling water and silt — but you’ll have to pay R20 per person catch a glimpse.

The Panorama route officially comes to an end in the town of Graskop, home to the famous Harrie’s Pancakes, but not much else. If you head west of there for about 20 kilometres you’ll find yourself thrust right back into the 19th century in the heritage town of Pilgrim’s Rest. The town boomed with the discovery of gold in the mid-1800’s and many of the buildings date back to those heady days. Although some areas of the village have been crassly commercialised, if you turn off the main drag and wander the back streets you’ll soon get a feel for what the town was like all those years ago.

If scenic drives and heritage towns are all a bit tame for you, then it’s time to head back to Otter’s Den. The lodge runs regular river-rafting expeditions on the Blyde and Olifants Rivers, ranging from a few hours to a few days. When and where you can raft is all down to how much rain has fallen to feed the rivers, so if you’re up for some white-water action make sure you plan your visit for after the heavy summer rains have fallen!

For something equally thrilling, but a lot warmer, Otter’s Den also run hot air balloon trips over the local game reserves. A ride in a hot air balloon certainly doesn’t come cheap, but if aerial antics are your passion and you’ve got a bit of cash to spare, the sensation of floating silently just metres above the treetops is an experience of a lifetime.

Back on terra firma, you can get your land legs back by exploring some of the many walks in the Blyde River Canyon nature reserve — the marked routes range in length from a gentle stroll to full-day expeditions and offer wonderful views of the gorge and the escarpment towering above. If you’re looking for something a bit more strenuous, there are also a number of overnight trails around the towns of Sabie and Graskop.

There’s far more to the Lowveld than big game and bushveld. Take a bit of time to head off the safari trail and you’ll discover an area rich in adventure, culture, shopping, eating and scenery.

Visiting Blyde River and the Lowveld...
The quickest way to get to the Lowveld is to fly there with South African Express Airways. SA Express flies twice a day from Johannesburg to Hoedspruit, with the flight taking just over an hour. Alternatively, Blyde River is about a five-hour drive from Johannesburg.

Accommodation at Otter's Den River Lodge is R590 per person per night on a full-board basis. This includes three meals per day, snacks and teas, guided walks, fishing, bedding and towels, but excludes alcoholic drinks. Visit the Otter's Den website for further information or contact the lodge on (015) 795 5488. Otter's Den also offer white water rafting, team-building, hot air ballooning and abseiling in the area.

Find out more about the Panorama Route from the Mpumalanga Tourism Authority.