This is in sharp contrast to the mid-1800s when journeys along the coast were frequently delayed by vast herds of elephant blocking the road. In the space of 50 years from 1870 to 1920, hunting reduced the number of elephants in the Knysna forest from nearly 500 to just seven.

Three new arrivals
In 1996 a plan was put into place to introduce three young elephant cows to the forest that would hopefully breed with what was then thought to be a lone bull. It turned out that the bull was in fact a cow, which fled in terror when she encountered the young arrivals. The experiment soon turned to tragedy when one of the young elephants died from the stress of the relocation and the remaining two began straying out of the forest and damaging surrounding farmland. The two younger elephants were eventually relocated to Shamwari game reserve in the Eastern Cape, leaving the lone female to resume her lonely wandering in the woods surrounding the Diepwalle forest station.

Knysna Elephant Park
It was in 1994, against this depressing backdrop, that Ian Withers and his wife Lisette made a commitment to fulfil their lifelong dream to reintroduce elephant to the Knysna area. With a passion for elephants borne of his family?s long association with the forest, he established the Knysna Elephant Park, roughly halfway between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay.

The reception area of the park houses a fascinating display ranging from famous elephants of the Knysna forest to information on their gestation and life cycle. A number of forestry department road signs punctured by tusks provide documentary evidence that at least one (and possibly three) wild elephant still roam the surrounding forest.

After a short video on the Knysna elephants and discussion on the ?conservation-through- education? aims of the park, it was time to make some new friends. We had arranged to go on a two-hour sunset walking tour in the forest, walking side-by-side with these majestic creatures as they forage freely amongst the trees.

Harry (bull, aged 13) and Sally (cow, aged 13), orphans from a culling programme in the Kruger National Park, were the first elephants to arrive at the park in 1994. They were joined two years later by Duma, a 10-year-old bull elephant.

As we set off with our guides, Nicholas and Lloyd, our three new companions kept up a brisk pace as we set off over the grassland in the direction of the forest, obviously sensing the tasty morsels that lay ahead! Even with Harry towering above us (he is over two metres tall and weighs three tons), Nicholas explained that by the time he reaches adulthood he would have grown another metre in height and increased his weight to six tons! He also explained that contrary to popular belief, the Knysna elephants are not a separate species of elephant. Harry, Sally and Duma are all Loxodonta africana africana (savanna elephant), which is the type of elephant commonly found throughout southern Africa as far north as the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Naughty by nature
As we walked through the fragrant thickets of fynbos into the forest, the distinctive personalities of each elephant were fascinating (and hilarious) to watch! Sally, the matriarch, would quietly plod on towards the forest, intent on reaching some good foliage before dark, while Harry was set in his ways and became quite indignant whenever his handler tried to get him to move a bit quicker. Unfortunately for those of us walking behind him, he would often make his dissatisfaction known by letting out a long (and rather noxious) blast of wind, so we quickly learnt to keep a following distance! Duma on the other hand, as the youngster, was perpetually curious and constantly wandering off the path to see what he could find. Walking off the path takes on a whole new meaning as an elephant, as they simply walked over any small trees in their way.

Walking alongside these enormous animals, it was quite incredible to realise how after being with them for a while they seem to acknowledge you as a minor member of their group. Before charging off into the undergrowth they will carefully check where you are to ensure they don?t flatten you in their quest for that tasty piece of black wattle. The exceptionally knowledgeable guides encouraged us to get to know the elephants as we walked, and to talk to them as we went along. Although I?d like to think that they were genuinely interested in what I had to say, I?m fairly sure that they were mainly just interested in anything I may have found for them to eat!

Roughly halfway through the walk we stopped in a forest clearing for a short break to catch our breath. Although the terrain is steep in places, you walk at elephant pace, so the walk can easily be done by anyone who is moderately fit. In the clearing you are also given a chance to ride briefly on Harry, who towers over two metres above the ground. A short walk around the clearing atop Harry is not for the faint-hearted, but is definitely a highlight not to be missed. Their awesome strength, yet gentle nature, is quite awe-inspiring.

A herd of their own

A new arrival! Shortly after writing, the Knysna Elephant Park were overjoyed to receive a new arrival! The staff had suspected that Nandi (one of the Tahabazimbi toughies) was pregnant, which was confirmed on October 16 2003, with the arrival of a baby girl, who has been called Nandi.

With the sun setting in the forested hills to the west, we completed our circuit back up the valley towards the boma where the elephants spend the night. Leaving the forest we could sense their eagerness to get back. As we ambled up the hill towards the boma, Nandi let out an ear-splitting trumpet to welcome home the elder members of the herd. Whether she was happy to see them or if it was just a ruse to disguise the fact that she had stolen some of their food while they were out, we couldn?t be sure!