As the Southern Right whales begin to arrive en masse off our shores, I paid a visit to one of the Western Cape's whale-watching hotspots last weekend. De Hoop Nature reserve, 60 kilometres east of Bredasdorp, has long been known as one of South Africa's best land-based whale-watching locations, with dozens of Southern Rights to be seen in the bay anytime from July to November.

Apart from the warm seas and calm waters, the De Hoop Marine Protected Area also makes this area attractive to whales for calving and mating. The protected area extends five kilometres out to sea, ensuring that no fishing or commercial activity disturbs this pristine marine environment.

While the whales get to enjoy their piece of aquatic paradise, visitors to De Hoop are similarly spoilt for choice. The 34 000 hectare De Hoop Nature Reserve is one of CapeNature's largest protected areas, and offers a wealth of activities and accommodation for adventurous weekenders.

Top of your list should be spending a few hours each day down at Koppie Alleen, watching the antics of the annual visitors. Whales come within 100-metres of the shore here and a pair of binoculars will get you a front-row seat to the action. Boardwalks lead down over the delicate sand dune vegetation to the shoreline, where you can wander along pristine beaches and explore rock pools where endangered African Black Oystercatchers hunt for unsuspecting bivalves.

While the sea might look inviting, there can be dangerous currents here, so best to restrict your swimming to the rock pools at low tide.

Koppie Alleen is also home to one of the reserve's most spectacular accommodation options. A four-bedroom set of cottages is nestled amongst the fynbos at the top of the dunes, with panoramic views out to sea. Whale-watching from around the braai fire? Not bad!

Once the day-visitors have left you'll have the entire place to yourselves, with just the sigh and groan of whales in the bay for company. Built in the local fisherman-style the cottage boasts four-poster beds, mosquito nets and a huge indoor fireplace for chilly Cape winters. Sun-loungers and umbrellas are perfect for hot summer days.

If the tide is high and you need to cool off you'll find a swimming pool (as well as a tennis court and boules courtyard) at The Opstal, the original farm homestead and home to most of the reserve's accommodation.

The Opstal offers a range of self-catering accommodation, from camp sites and cottages to large houses and luxury options.

The De Hoop Village offers fisherman-style houses characteristic of the Western Cape coast, with white-washed walls and black roofs. Although slightly on top of each other, the nine cottages are fully equipped and well-suited for friends or families travelling together.

Another good group option is the seven equipped cottages a short distance from the reserve office. With wide grassy lawns in front and buck grazing in the field behind, these are also great for families. There is one three-bedroomed cottage called Eland and six 2-bedroomed cottages; Mountain Zebra, Bontebok, Baboon, Steenbok, Duiker and Grysbok.

These cottages were my first experience of De Hoop, and a few years back were in desperate need of an upgrade. While regular visitors have grumbled about the recent price increases, you get what you pay for and the revamped cottages are a great improvement. The cottages have all been upgraded with new kitchens, redecorated bedrooms and bathrooms and equipped with fresh linen and towels.

A room with a view

A short walk away you'll find the three Vlei Cottages which have also been totally revamped and have brand new kitchens, bathrooms, furniture, linen and towels for discerning self-catering guests.

Not far off are the Campsite Rondawels, which enjoy a fantastic position overlooking the De Hoop Vlei. The reserve is famous for its bird-watching, and a sunset spent quietly at the water's edge will reward you with owls flying silently by, pelicans gliding to their roosts and fish eagles calling across the water. Magical.

The five Rondawels are stylishly decorated, and are a good budget option if you don't mind communal bathrooms. Self-catering facilities are limited to a kettle, toaster and braai area though, so don't expect to cook much. These are a good option if you're passing through and would rather eat most meals at the new Fig Tree restaurant at the Opstal.

Out to eat…

The restaurant is housed in one of the original buildings and offers a cosy farm-style setting. Starters (R30-R45) and main courses (R75 – R120) change daily and offer hearty portions of traditional Cape cuisine. Expect fresh local fish, lamb shanks and rich Oxtail. The restaurant is open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner and is great if you don't feel like self-catering.

A short walk from the restaurant you'll find the three-bedroomed Opstal Houses, where gnarled Milkwood Trees provide shade around the braai on sunny summer days. Walled gardens make them safe for families, while still offering a great view of the herds of eland that graze nearby.

The Houses are a short walk from the Vlei, but I'm afraid my newly-discovered sundowner spot will have to remain a secret! During the day, there are three well-marked walking trails for you to wander and explore the edge of the Vlei. If you prefer life on wheels, a number of mountain bike routes are marked through the reserve. Ask for a map at reception. A scenic ride/drive up into the hills above the vlei is another day-trip option.

But for me, the chance of spending another few hours on the dunes at Koppie Alleen is what will have me heading back to De Hoop before too long. Binoculars in one hand, toes wiggling in the sand, Southern Rights breaching just beyond the breakers… yes, this is certainly one of my favourite corners of the fairest Cape.

For more information on the accommodation at De Hoop visit the De Hoop Collection website. You can also find out more on CapeNature's De Hoop Nature Reserve website.

GALLERIES > The De Hoop Collection
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