Taking the plunge to the East is no small decision, and Marie-Therese Le Roux would be pleased to assist South Africans with some vision in making it easier. Contact her at: kuberkat@yahoo.com or phone: 0913 128457

Being there, doing that and getting the dragon tattooed on your soul

Taiwan is a mind-boggling, layered collage of ancient and modern, first- and third-world, menial labour and high-tech revolutions. Continuous bustle and intensity, and an abundance of mysterious options, bombard the senses nonstop. To a South African, there seems to be so much of everything that for weeks one's eyes simply bulge in awe, curiosity and fascination.

The opportunity to work in a region that combines intriguing ancient myth with cutting-edge modernity is tempting in itself. To South Africans tired of dead-ends, it is encouraging that Asian countries value native speakers of English highly — and this is what has drawn growing numbers of us to this green silicon island.

A year's English teaching contract means a whole new life, and this article addresses the reality of replanting roots in Asia for this brave endeavour.

The way of thinking in Taiwan was deeply formed by the intersecting philosophies of Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism. Their ancient values have permeated even the current drive for global competitiveness. Modesty and respect are still a way of life, but education has become more important than ever.

English "bushiban", or cram schools, are a daily destination for many children. Equipped with highly trained, super-efficient local staff, these schools require native speakers of English to perfect students' language skills. And so, opportunity knocks.

English schools generally use well-designed curricula that are learning-intensive. (that's why they call it cram school.) This means that the infrastructure is there, and teachers needn't reinvent the wheel. Ongoing training programmes and staff support ensure that even new teachers needn't feel lost, and have as much guidance in teaching as they require.

Cram schools operate in the early evening, which means that teachers have their days free to explore, learn new skills, master old skills or teach at English kindergartens.

Children are always a certain mood-lifter, and most teachers work with varying age groups. Local education renders the students eager to learn and remarkably well-disciplined. Most students seem to learn as if by magic, and the occasional problem can usually be isolated and sorted out with the help of the dedicated Chinese-speaking staff.

But teaching is only half of the package. The exhilarating, and sometimes daunting, reality is that one's life is transported to Taiwan as well. Sometimes dazzling, sometimes poetic and always overwhelming, being a Westerner in Asia throws one right through the looking-glass into a completely new world. And it's not always equally brave.

Culture shock is a significant part of any overseas experience. And since this is more than just a holiday, it is wise to prepare for it with all the information one can gather, a healthy dose of vitamins and a bigger dose of determination. Hang onto your sense of adventure — you're going to need it. In Taiwan, the most everyday parts of life can be full of surprises.

The air we breathe is something we take for granted. Exiting Chiang Kai-Shek Airport is a rapid wake-up call to the new arrival. Suddenly air is a warm mist, and in the cities of this industrialised island, it isn't all that clean, either.

Generally, the climate is hot and humid all over the island, and temperamental to boot. Strategic fashions rule the streets: layering delicate fabrics ensures comfort in the outdoor sauna and the air-conditioned interiors alike. A raincoat is part of any survival kit.

Modernisation and globalisation mean that there are 7-Elevens and McDonalds to be found all over Taiwan. Still, it pays to learn to love rice and noodles, and to believe that green tea is delicious, despite your tastebuds' protests. Sprawling night markets offer every imaginable Asian delicacy until way past midnight, and make great grounds for hunting and gathering — and naturally, people watching.

Taiwan's wildcard to ecomomic success was its technological production capability. Living here, anyone is affected by the scourge of gadgetry (recent surveys show that 70% of the population owns a cellphone.)

This techno-satiation is a blessing to expatriates, who can easily stay in touch with those at home using the many Internet cafes (which sport rapid, reliable and dirt cheap access.) To hear English voices, one need merely tune into any of the four English radio stations in Taipei, of which one broadcasts island wide. Satellite television means that all the comforts of your couch at home are there at the click of a remote control.

Three English newspapers are published in Taiwan daily, and the Asian editions of Time and Newsweek magazines are in bookstores weekly. The better bookstores have elaborate international sections, with German and French titles alongside those in English.

If you loved malling in South Africa, the department stores in Taiwan will be a treat. With international labels galore and serious snob appeal, these stores make Sandton look dull, doll. But the option of heading outdoors is appealing, too, with a booming adventure tourism trade mushrooming all over Taiwan.

Transport is excellent (unless, of course, you're driving: the traffic is sheer anarchy). In Taipei the superb underground railway, the MRT, connects the entire city. Trains and buses are frequent and operate until around midnight, while taxis are always available. On a year's expedition, many foreigners invest in scooters to get around — inexpensive and trusty, they are the fastest way of getting a life.

On the subject of getting a life, there are 23 million beautiful strangers to meet in Taiwan. On the whole, the Taiwanese are considerate, hospitable people who will go out of their way to make one feel at home. When the need strikes to speak to Westerners, there are lively expat communities in all the big cities. While there is no need to be lonely on this foreign island, solitude is there for the taking, if you want it.

Spending a year in Taiwan is certainly not for the faint-hearted. The best way to make an informed decision is simply to do one's homework. The Internet is an information goldmine, and the background of Taiwan, English teaching and the like can be found on a plethora of websites.

An indispensable guidebook is the Lonely planet Guide to Taiwan, which pretty much gives the lowdown on everything. Also helpful, especially if you are tempted to explore more of Asia, is the Rough Guide publication "First Time Asia", which offers guidelines for the adjustment that awaits.

For the whole truth, though, the best way to get it is from the horse's mouth. Speaking to Taiwanese people living in South Africa will open up a whole new perspective. Recruiters can also provide contacts who are currently teaching in Taiwan, who can tell you more about the highs and lows. Because both are guaranteed.

If you really are serious, it is wise to learn enough Mandarin Chinese to meet your basic needs on arrival. Although just about everyone here will say hello to you in English, few will know what to say next.

Still, nothing can ever really prepare you for the instant illiteracy that strikes once you're really in a world of Chinese neon signs, for the stifling aroma of incense and tofu on an ordinary street, or for the delight in a child's eyes who is so thrilled to see a real live Westerner that you don't even mind them staring.

Living in Taiwan is awe-inspiring, it is confrontational, it is an education, it is the gate of heaven, it is a bed of nails. Because, like living anywhere, it is what you make it.

For those who have met the challenge, Taiwan is opening doors they never imagined to exist.

Taking the plunge to the East is no small decision, and Marie-Therese Le Roux would be pleased to assist South Africans with some vision in making it easier. Contact her at: kuberkat@yahoo.com or phone: 0913 128457