With the veil of jetlag resting heavily upon us, it would be easy to ignore the first entrancing signs that indicate we are in a new and foreign land. But winding our way through villages of narrow streets and white-washed houses dripping with red geraniums from wrought iron window boxes, we are brought quickly back to our senses. Turning left from Ripoli di Lari lands us onto a dirt road that takes us straight up the hill to a magnificent view and to the Villa Delia.

The backdrop is idyllic: 54 acres of rolling green hills, olive groves, vineyards and cherry orchards, where wild boars roam by night and pheasants strut by day, and where a rich sun beams down, drenching the fertile lands.

The air smells of the freshness that this part of the world is all about - herbs and garden vegetables, aromatic and abundant, fragrant wild flowers, chickens roasting in rosemary and sage, pizza cooking in the outdoor brick oven.

A 16th-century estate, completely refurbished in typical Tuscan style, Villa Delia has become a world-class cooking school and working-holiday spot. The villa remains true to the values of its culture and region by being family owned and operated. "Family is the root of everything in Italy," says cooking school owner Umberto Menghi.

Chef Umberto was born near Florence in 1947, trained at a hotel school in Rome and came to Canada to work as a chef at Montreal's Queen Elizabeth Hotel during the 1967 World's Fair. In 1968 he headed for Vancouver, where he opened a small restaurant called Umberto; he has since created several more restaurants in Vancouver, Whistler, B.C., and San Francisco.

Opened in 1995, Villa Delia was named after his mother, a superb cook as well as a loving mother, whose dream it was to one day have all of her family back together in Tuscany. "When the opportunity came up to buy this place, remembers Umberto, "I knew it was my mother's wish and my dream being handed to me. I jumped at it."

A typical day begins with a wake-up call, either from the cuckoo bird nesting outside the shuttered windows, or (more prosaically) by direct predial on the bedside phone the night before. Beds are comfortable and rooms are crisp, clean and luxuriously equipped. Breakfast in the main dining room is continental style, and is the only light meal of the day. It is a time to relax, drink coffee, visit and prepare for cooking class, which begins at nine o'clock each morning.

Bright and airy, the school kitchen is equipped with enough industrial gas stoves and fridges to comfortably accommodate a class of 15. Classes are usually taught by Umberto himself, with the sous chef and Marietta Malacarne, Umberto's sister and resident chef, both assisting. The school offers hands-on lessons as well as classes for note-taking and observation. Recipes are regional, many passed down through Umberto's family, and the ingredients used are always local and same-day fresh.

"The food in Tuscany speaks to you; it is so fresh, so alive," says Umberto. As he speaks he leans back, closes his eyes and rubs his heart. "When you feel the life in the food you can truly cook wonderful meals." His words are an inspiration as we proceed to massage olive oil into fresh, yellow chickens for roasting, breaking off leaves of sage and sprigs of rosemary, and letting the juice of freshly cut lemons squeeze through our fingers.

The purpose behind Villa Delia's family approach is to create a friendly, simple life for guests during their stay. The whole family is involved somehow, whether to cook, clean, serve or teach. "This is how it is done," says Umberto. "It takes the intimidation out of cooking and life, and allows each person to be taken for who they are. Sharing sensory enjoyment with friends and family, rather than competing, lets people discover the real pleasures of cooking, expressing themselves and having fun."

After class there is plenty of time to relax with a glass of fresh villa wine before lunch, when everyone enjoys the food prepared (with a little help) by the new chefs. An afternoon siesta is suggested before the outing of the day, although people tend to stay at the long outdoor family table, socialising and letting the savoury afternoon meal linger on their palates just a little longer.

Daily excursions are another much-anticipated part of the agenda, allowing guests to explore the exquisite beauty, art and architecture of such places as Florence, Siena or San Gimignano. Tasting wine along the Riviera at an exclusive winery and then again at Enoteca Italiana in Siena, we learn the difference between the light, fruity inland wine and the more robust coastal wine.

With Umberto and his good-humoured brother-in-law, Silvano Malacarne, guests learn about Tuscany directly from two local boys who have a genuine passion for their country. Back home for a late supper, weary travellers are treated once again to a glass of wine and a seemingly endless number of dinner courses: antipasto, crostini, pasta and salad, all followed by Mamma Delia's famous roasted chicken with sage.

Sitting in the open air at the family table, Umberto at the head, guests, staff and family filling the remaining seats, one can't help feeling completely and utterly relaxed.

With good food, family and new friends joined together, a gentle breeze blowing in from the west and the soft evening light casting shadows across the patchwork hills, what more could one ask for? Well, maybe a glass of Chianti Rosso.

More culinary adventures...
La Combe
Do truffles, wild mushrooms and foie gras set your pulse racing? At La Combe in the French Dordogne, week-long courses are taught by noted cookbook writers like Georgeanne Brennan and Lora Brody. La Vie en Prigord programmes zero in on seasonal specialties and produce. Visits to medieval markets, walnut mills, and cheese makers included. $2 500 to $3 500.

Le Manoir aux Quat' Saisons
Located on 27 acres in the Cotswolds, this is the only school in the world that lets you learn in a Michelin two-star restaurant kitchen. One to four-day courses cover everything from how to bone a quail to cooking creatively with fish. Four-day courses include acclaimed chef Raymond Blanc's Menu Gourmand. $612 to $2 507.

Essence of Provence
Former food editor and cookbook author Eileen Dwillies offers "self-managed" six-day courses in a charming French village. Learn to cook regional specialties at your own pace - or join visits to olive oil mills, and local producers. Home base is the beautifully restored family home. Dwillies also offers packages to Venice, and the Piedmont area. From $1 300.

The Ballymaloe Cookery School
The lush rolling countryside of Ireland's County Cork is the setting for writer and TV chef Darina Allen's highly rated facility. Courses range from an intensive five days to a single day focused on hors d'oeuvres and puddings. Accommodation is in acharming 18th century farm buildings converted into self-catering cottages. From about $150 to $600.

Chateau Drouilles
Crowning a hill in the countryside of the Limousin, France, this twin-turreted chateau is straight from a fairy-tale. Gourmet store owner and chef Linda Meinhardt teaches six-day courses in regional cuisine, often in the outdoor kitchen using produce from the chateau's garden. Stays include a day in Cognac and visits to suppliers and markets. From $3 000.

Your Guide to 110 Decadent Cooking Holidays In Italy
Margaret Cowan's useful book showcases a wealth of schools, handily cross-indexed by date, lesson type, and area. Includes photos, maps, and prices. It costs $45.77 including postage. 1-800-557-0370. www.italycookingschools.com.

Story courtesy of Travel Etc: A UNIGLOBE Travel Publication