Leaving the bustle of busy Florence, the road winds higher and higher until you reach the imposing entrance to the hotel, of which the original building was a monastery founded in the 15th century for Franciscan monks. While the present building?s facade is attributed to Michelangelo, the monastic roots are clearly visible.
Stepping from the blazing Italian sun into the reception area, you find yourself in a discreetly lit ages-old chapel complete with altar. Well-preserved historical artefacts like this are to be found all over the hotel, and stepping through to the next chapel reveals a stunning fresco of the Last Supper by Nicodemo Ferrucci painted in 1642.
In 1982 Villa San Michele became an Orient Express Hotel, and its trademark luxury and excellence is tangible throughout the property. There are 46 rooms, either in the main building of the old monastery or suites on the outside terraces in the garden, filled with period furniture.
A touch of real history is tangible in the presidential Limonaia suites: the original building was used by the monks to store potted lemon trees to protect them during the winter. Now it?s an ultra-luxurious space, with panoramic views across the property and Florence below.
Walking through the formal, terraced gardens filled with rosemary, lavender and wisteria perfuming the air, stairs lead up to the three terraces of suites, each with its own style, but distinctive with touches of marbled Florentine paper, wonderfully comfortable sofas, and private garden patios ? perfect for enjoying a morning coffee or early evening glass of prosecco. Just remember; this is the countryside and there are millions of mosquitos, so slap on the repellant!
?The view is truly unsurpassed?
Indoors the linen is the finest you?ll find, while the dramatic bathrooms with floor-to-ceiling marble, walk-in shower, vast baths and luscious Bulgari, Penhaligon?s and Molton Brown products invite prolonged me-time.
The piece de resistance of Villa San Michele, however, is the loggia dating from 1600. The view is truly unsurpassed: the Arno river valley, Florence dominated by the Duomo ? simply breathtaking. It?s the perfect spot for breakfast: find a sunny table and enjoy a multitude of cold meats, like prosciutto and cured salamis, the freshest, mildest ricotta, mozzarella and pecorino cheeses, along with fresh fruits, pastries and of course, plenty of espresso.
In the evening, the tinkling of piano keys will lure you down to enjoy aperitivi here, something of a meal in itself. Choose a refreshing bellini (prosecco with fresh white peach puree) or go for one of the many martinis ? classic or perhaps be adventurous and try one made with aged balsamic vinegar? The complimentary snacks with your drinks are astounding and delicious: fat, tangy green olives, the sweetest sundried tomatoes, miniature crostini with tomato, pickled mushrooms ̬ a feast of all things Italian!
The famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina...
Moving on to dinner, also in La Loggia, waiters are the epitome of professionalism, but with a bit of Italian flair added for good measure. The menu focuses on seasonal typically-Tuscan fare, and there?s an excellent sommelier on hand to assist with pairing local wines to match the food. Octopus salad is served with chickpeas and black truffle for a touch of luxury, while baby calamari on a bed of silky bean puree has a dash of chilli oil added for a fiery kick.
Then move on to risotto with meaty porcini mushrooms, the famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina: 1.2kg of beef T-bone that?s been grilled to rare perfection, carved at the table, and served thinly-sliced with peppery extra virgin olive oil. Perfect sides of char-grilled vegetables accompany this meaty feast (big enough for two).
If there?s room, desserts like chestnut mousse with chocolate millefeuille and light fruity sorbets or a plate of artisanal cheeses rounds off a magical meal perfectly. The romantic setting, twinkling lights of Florence below, piano music in the background, and superlative service matched to excellently-prepared food with exceptional wines truly make for the experience of a lifetime.
And a stay at Villa San Michele can be as active or as lazy as you like: explore Florence?s museums, leather shops and jewellery stores easily with the courtesy shuttle bus into town or simply spend the day lazing by the heated pool on the upper terrace ? drinking in the fabulous views, book in hand and not a care in the world.
If you?re keen to explore more of the memorable Tuscan cooking, they offer an excellent variety of classes at their cooking school all year round. Whether you want to perfect your pasta-making skills or are keen to master the flavours of Tuscan cuisine, you can do it in these stylish surrounds ? and best of all you?ll enjoy the fruits of your labours with a meal after the class.
With its professional and charming staff, a concierge on hand to assist with planning the best Florentine experiences, a world-class setting, ultra-luxurious rooms and the finest food and wine, Villa San Michele, high up in the hills, truly is a few steps away from heaven.
Discover more about Villa San Michele at www.villasanmichele.com. Click through to our Florence travel guide for more on the Renaissance City.
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