I love Istanbul!

As I discovered recently, it is an intoxicating metropolis situated on the Bosporus Strait which divides Asia and Europe. Much of its charm lies in the combination of the old and the new, along with the tangible Ottoman and Byzantine heritage that make the city such an exotic and desirable destination.

With a hankering for a destination with a difference, I headed to the Constantinople of olde for a 10-day vacation, and, opting to live like a local, stayed in a fab apartment (www.thehouseapart.com) in trendy Cihangir, an eclectic hub of cafes, bars and restaurants in the Beyoglu district, with its cool Bohemian-chic vibe.

Travelling solo found me needing a routine, so I stopped by Cuppa (www.cuppajuice.com) daily, armed with my laptop and travel books and over delicious Turkish breakfasts (you have to try cilbir, a.k.a poached eggs topped with yoghurt) and leisurely plotted my many adventures.

I have to say that the food in this part of the world is on of my favourites and I ate at several amazing restaurants serving a variety of cuisine. On my list: the famous House Cafes dotted all over the city; Simdi and Kafeehaus in Tunel; Kaktus and Tokyo in Cihangir; Vogue in Besiktas (with a killer rooftop view); Ulus 29 in Levent; Zazie and the Beyman Cafe in Nisantasi; Lucca in Bebek; Mozaik in Sultanahmet and the chic Spice Market in the newest hotel in the ?W? chain, in Besiktas, where I attended the tres swanky official opening.

For Istanbullus and copycat tourists like me, eyeing the view of the city over a cocktail is a must, and great rooftop terrace bars abound, with my personal favourite being the stylish 360 ? complete with a Capetonian chef ? on the Istiklal Caddesi, the long avenue that connects Tunel to Taksim. Istanbul also has a vibrant nightlife to match the city?s boundless energy that plays out at bars and clubs like Babylon, amongst others.

Between sightseeing and shopping excursions, I people-watched at a sidewalk cafes whilst savouring local dishes like borek (cheese filled pastries) dipped in jagik (thick tzaziki), izmir kofte (meatballs), baklava (originally Turkish, by the way, don?t dare say that it?s a Greek delicacy!) and baked rice pudding.

Don't drain your coffee!

Wash it all down with some apple tea or (very) strong Turkish coffee ? never drain the bottom of a Turkish coffee cup for fear of a mouth-full of muddy leftovers! Remember to try the locally produced Efes beer or the anise-flavoured aperitif called Raki. When on the trot, roasted chestnuts or simit (bread pretzels) bought from street vendors kept the hunger at bay.

Across the Golden Horn waterway is Sultanahmet, a tourist mecca that is home to the Old City. Dotted with minarets and domes, it plays host to iconic must-see landmarks like the magnificent Topkapi Palace, the Grand Bazaar, the Blue Mosque, the Aya Sofya and the eerie Basilica Cisterns.

Talking of the Grand Bazaar, shopping these days is a tad expensive in Istanbul (R6 = 1YTL at time of writing) but good deals can be had, especially at the Bazaar where rugs, leather, cashmere pashminas and fake high-end brands are in abundance. With about 4500 shops to choose from, take your time and negotiate! For superlative leather jackets visit Koc Deri (www.kocderi.com) and Abdullah for unique tea glasses and high-quality throws and pop into the famous Fes Cafe for a meal.

Arts and culture are alive and well in Istanbul

For the big name brands, I cruised the Istiklal Caddesi and the Nisantasi areas where local jeans brand Mavi (www.mavi.com) deserves a try-on. For exquisite kelims, I popped into the legendary A La Turca (www.alaturcahouse.com) in Cihangir and if you want the mother-load of stores under one roof, head for the massive new Istinye Park Mall in Levent ? it'll quell your shopping addictions for life!

Arts and culture are alive and well in Istanbul with opera, ballet, jazz festivals and philharmonic performances happening regularly. Loads of galleries host interesting exhibitions, and you simply must visit the Istanbul Modern on the Karakoy pier, with its famous hanging book display, 'Staircase to Hell' and a cafe that boasts a superb view of the Sultanahmet peninsula across the bay. For outstanding photo opportunities, scoot up the nearby Galata Tower and take in the outstanding panoramic views.

Escape the city

Heading a short way out of the city centre I took a scenic bus trip along the edge of the Bosporus, stopping at the quaint villages of Bebek and Orkatoy. The House Cafe Ortakoy is in prime position on the water's edge, right next to the Mecidiye Mosque, positioned beneath the very imposing and modern Bosporus Bridge.

For a different perspective, I took a two- hour cruise up the Bosporus, which gave me the chance to see both the Asian and European shores of Istanbul and the impressively ornate Dolmabahce Palace. A longer sail will take you to the Princes Islands in the Marmara Sea, or even further still, to Kusadasi and Bodrum on the stunning Aegean Coast, with its turquoise seas and beautiful beaches.

Getting around the city is cheap and easy via tram, metro and bus ? taxis are the expensive option unless you are sharing the ride. By walking the city, where I felt really safe at all times, I discovered quaint Parisian- style passageways off the main avenues that offered up some hidden treasures like ancient Turkish orthodox churches and buildings dating back to the 1300?s.

Istanbul surprised and delighted me with its combination of grandness and humility and its mix of the modern and the ancient. It is a captivating travel experience and I am already looking forward to my next visit, in the European summer when the weather is best.