Rising up above the endlessly harsh and arid land, is Quomolangma, rooftop of the world, Mount Everest. At an altitude of 8848m she rises steadily towards the sky, watching over the land of intrigue and rugged beauty that lies at her feet. Nestled on the plains of the Himalayas, amidst azure blue lakes, rugged mountain passes and windswept fields of Tsampa, lies Tibet. Reaching an average altitude of 4500m above sea level, this is the home of Tibetan Bhuddism.

Dawn in Lhasa, capital of Tibet, and the eerie gong of Drepung Monastery rings out from the hills above the city, calling her Buddhists to prayer. Amidst the icy chill of an autumn morning, beneath the grey rock cliffs, the stairs of the monastery come alive with a flurry of red capes and early morning chatter as the monks gather. On the stone and slasto paving at the base of the great hall, yaks grind on hay and rock to and fro, their bells sending songs into the morning air.

Drepung is the most important monastery of the Gelugpa school in Tibetan Buddhism. Covering 250 000m², it was once home to over 15 000 monks. Today, only a few hundred remain and it is here under the crisp autumn air each year, that the monks perform Tibetan Opera in celebration of the annual Shoton Festival, a tradition which has persisted since the 11th century.

A thousand years of heritage

Not far from Drepung lies Sera Monastery, a second important school of the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat sect, a large sprawling complex which contains three different colleges. Amongst its treasures, are a set of Tangyur (canons of teachings spoken by Buddha) 16 arhats, a sandalwood statue of the Buddha, along with a Hayagriva statue said to have once spoken and a Chenrezig statue which belonged to the famous nun, Gelongma Padma.

Tibet holds the key to over 1300 years of a religious heritage based on peace and harmony and while the rest of the world fills their days with the clutter of westernisation, Tibetans fill their days with dedication to the principles of Bhuddism.

Most carry prayer beads that used to mark the number of times they chant a mantra. Others carry flasks filled with butter to rekindle the butter lamps in the monasteries. Along temple walls, prayer wheels inscribed with mantras roll under the hands that turn them offering prayers for all sentient beings. Brightly coloured prayer flags gently flutter in the breeze.

But the religious dedication of the Tibetans, is best witnessed outside of the Jokhang Temple, the spiritual centre of Tibet. Here, pilgrims from every corner of Tibet arrive to worship the Shakyamuni Buddha by prostrating themselves in prayer on the threshold of the temple for between two and four hours a day.

From the gilded temple roofs of Jokhang, Potala Palace rises in the distance, its red and white walls ringing out its importance as the political centre of Tibet. Perched upon Marpo Ri hill, it has been the seat of Dalai Lamas since 1645 until the 14th Dalai Lama fled to Dharamsala, India after a failed uprising in 1959. Today, Potala Palace is a state museum of China and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

On the road...

Leaving the golden temples beind, the road from Lhasa heads out along tree lined roads through the highest and most extensive plateau in the world, well over three times the size of Texas or France. The friendship highway, extends all the way from Lhasa down to its southern neighbour, Nepal, over 1200km away.

After leaving Lhasa, one soon heads up the first of many mountain passes, Kamba Pass at 3700m. Passing through one switchback after the next, the Tibetan tapestry draws back its curtains to reveal a most spectacular sight. The summit, festooned in colourful prayer flags, overlooks the expansive Lake Namdrok; its azure blue water in stark contrast to the grey mountains above.

Out on the plateau, the road heads towards the town of Gyantse at 3980m. This is home to the famous 15th century Kumbum, or 'Hall of 100 thousand images'. Containing literally thousands of incredible murals, the interior is built up over six levels, with more than 70 chapels on the first four levels alone. Progressively winding your way up from one level to the next, you suddenly step out onto a landing, where you literally look directly into the all seeing eyes of Buddha. Up here, the skies feel higher than anywhere else, the vast plains wider and the teachings of the Buddha, all encompassing. Compassion, peace, altruism, transcendence.

Back on the road, one heads towards Shigatse and the exquisitely built, Tashilhunpo Monastery. Meaning, "all fortune and happiness gathered here," this 600 year old monastery built by the first Dalai Llama, is the traditional seat of the Panchen Lama, the second highest ranking tulku lineage in the Gelukpa tradition.

Passing through small little villages and the town of Shegar, the road veers off the Friendship Highway, toward the Quomolangma National park. The landscape is desolate, decorated with the odd 10-year-old nomadic herder tending up to 1000 goats or yaks. In the fields, Tibetans sing while they toil under the baking sun, hard at work harvesting their fields of Tsampa (or barley). Amidst plumes of dust settling in the creases of their weathered faces, they laugh and smile, exchanging greetings to all who pass by.

Roof of the world

Ahead, the road becomes gravel and winds into no less than 42 uphill switchbacks, only to unravel one of the worlds’ most awe inspiring vistas. Here, the Tibetan tapestry unfolds to reveal the mighty Himalayan peaks, with Everest looming in the center, accompanied by Shishapangma (8012m), Cho Oyu (8210m) and Lhotse (8516m).

Everest base camp lies only 20km away and as the dust settles on the road behind, you suddenly find yourself standing in the shadow of Everest, looming down on you from her lofty 8848m perch. The Nepalese call her, Sagarmatha, Sanskrit for "Forehead of the Sky". The Tibetans call her Quomolangma; "Mother of the Universe". To all who stand in her shadow, she is mighty indeed. Having granted over 2200 climbers the right to stand on her summit, she has kept 190 in her clutches.

But what is it that draws a soul to visit Tibet. Is it the ever smiling faces, the lure of the arid land, the mystical silence of the winds across the Tibetan plains, or the majesty of the Himalayas that watch over the people. Is it the intrigue of its history or the mystery of its beliefs. Or is it simply that the peace and harmony of the people, built up over a thousand years of entrenched Bhuddist belief, calls to those in search of inner peace.


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