I?ve been to Hong Kong three times in the last four years, and it is still far and away my favourite city in Asia. It?s cleaner than Bangkok, but just as vibrant. It?s as efficient as Singapore, but hasn?t sold its soul. Perhaps surprisingly, it has a hint of natural beauty, and offers some of the best food in the world. In fact, alongside New York it ties for first place in my list of favourite cities on the planet.
With so much to offer perhaps it?s not surprising that the ?fragrant harbour? is becoming increasingly popular with South African travellers, not least for the shopping. But what do you do if you?re not into retail therapy, or have maxed your credit card? Fresh off the plane from another flying visit to the city, I hauled out my old notebooks from the past few years to share with you my highlights of Hong Kong.
Make like Bruce Lee
The nightly 'Sound and Light Spectacular' on the skyscrapers of Central is billed as the largest permanent laser and light show on earth, and bathes Victoria Harbour in a sea of colour. The best place to see the action is from the Avenue of Stars on Kowloon, Hong Kong?s answer to Hollywood Boulevard. It?s a romantic spot for a walk bathed in the lights of Hong Kong, but do make sure you have your photo taken mimicking the statue of karate-kick-poised Bruce Lee!
Have your fortune told
The Sik Sik Yuen Wong Tai Sin temple in the north of Kowloon (the mainland side of Hong Kong) is a wonderful slice of Taoist tranquillity hidden amongst the towering apartment blocks, where locals come to burn incense and present offerings to the gods.
But what about the clatter of sticks falling on the flagstones? Well, the temple is also famous for its fortune-tellers. With your 'chosen' fortune stick in hand the row of professional fortune tellers will explain ? by way of a fable ? what the future holds for you. The locals take it seriously, and so should you.
Say hello to Buddha
After a few teething problems, the Ngong Ping 360 cable-car on the island of Lantau has become one of the most popular attractions in Hong Kong, whisking visitors on a 5.7-kilometre journey that offers spectacular views over the island.
It?s also the quickest way to get to the serene Po Lin monastery, which is home to the largest outdoor, seated Buddha in the world, towering 26 metres above the hillside. It's a 268-step climb from the peaceful temples below, but well worth the effort to see this Hong Kong icon up close.
Leave some time to wander along the Wisdom Path before tucking into the wonderful vegetarian lunch at the monastery.
Keep the kids happy
Forget Mickey Mouse? Ocean Park is the theme park that locals and visitors love most. Attracting over five million visitors last year, the Park in the suburb of Aberdeen is a perfect spot for families to spend the day.
There is a range of theme park rides to enjoy (included in the ticket price), but the highlight for me was the wonderful animal exhibits ? especially the ?Amazing Asian Animals? which features a state-of-the-art Giant Panda enclosure. There?s also an extensive Oceanarium with excellent tank displays, as well as daily dolphin shows.
Hit the beach
Beaches? Hong Kong? No, I haven?t been spending too much time in the air! Hong Kong might not be the place for a 10-day beach break, but the sands on the south coast of Hong Kong Island are a great way to escape the crowds of Kowloon for a day.
Repulse Bay is the Clifton of Hong Kong and has a wide, flat stretch of sand with safe swimming. The smaller Deep Water Bay seems to attract a younger crowd, while Stanley is popular for watersports, and has a popular market nearby. Keep going to the village of Shek O and nearby you?ll find Big Wave Bay, where you can hire a surfboard and hit the surf? although unless a typhoon is on its way you won?t find much swell.
Take a walk
Hiking is probably not the first thing that springs to mind when you think of Hong Kong, but the island offers a surprising array of trails to explore. The Hong Kong Trail stretches some 50-kilometres across Hong Kong Island, but is also broken into short sections you can easily cover in a few hours.
The walk from The Peak to Aberdeen offers lovely views of the city while surrounded by forest, or head further afield (only an hour or so by bus) and walk the Dragon?s Back towards the village of Shek O. Companies like Walk Hong Kong offer excellent guided walks throughout the territory.
Eat, eat and eat some more!
When people ask me what I did in Hong Kong, the answer is usually: ?I ate?!
From sensational dim sum to Spicy Szechuan and super-fresh seafood, the city is a gourmand?s delight. You?ll find good food everywhere in the city, from cheap-as-chips noodle bars and night markets to top-end restaurants? it all depends on the depth of your pockets.
For a traditional dim sum breakfast the Kingsbury Restaurant in Granville Plaza (in Tsim Tsha Tsui) is as local as it gets? ask for an English menu otherwise you?ll be lost! Come lunchtime, the yum cha on offer at the communal tables of Lan Fong Yuen in Central are always packed, so get there early. For a special dinner, head to Bo Innovation where chef Alvin Yeung creates molecular gastronomy out of traditional Asian flavours. It?s not cheap, but if you love food it?s worth every dollar.
One last view
However you spend your days, the image of Hong Kong that should be burnt in your mind should be from Victoria Peak at night. Pick a clear night and head for The Peak tram station where the two old-style carriages whisk you up impossibly steep rails to the Peak for the best views of the city. Unforgettable.
? Visit our Hong Kong Travel guide
Richard Holmes travelled to Hong Kong courtesy of Flight Centre, Cathay Pacific and the Hong Kong Tourism Board. To book a trip to this fabulous Far East destination contact Flight Centre on 0860 400 747 or visit www.flightcentre.co.za.
Packages to Hong Kong start from R12 240 per person sharing. This includes return flights on Cathay Pacific, return airport/hotel transfers, three nights? accommodation in Kowloon at the four-star Luxe Manor Hotel with breakfast daily, a Hong Kong Island tour with dinner, Lantau entertainment tour including cable car trip and an Ocean Park tour to see the Giant Pandas and more. This package is valid for travel between 24 January and 28 February 2010. Contact Flight Centre on 0860 400 747 for more information or sms ?Hong Kong? to 33645 and a consultant will call you back.

