Located in the south-west of the South Island, Milford Sound is the most celebrated of the 15 fiords that make up the Fiordland National Park.

The Fiordland Area

Although named a sound, the area is technically a fiord – a long narrow bay, protected by steep walls carved from previously sliding glaciers. Its position stands 295km from Queenstown — the nearest tourist destination, and 122 km from Te Anau — a popular gateway to the Fiordland area. Milford Sound’s secluded location transcends true wilderness in a land untouched by man. However, don’t let the remote location fool you, as the most accessible fiord, Milford Sound sees some 550 000 visitors every year.

By a stroke of luck I had British friends who were due to be vacationing in South Island the same week as myself. They too were keen to visit Milford Sound after a previous trip had been rained off. We planned to meet in Queenstown and from there join forces to Te Anau, where we could rejuvenate for our kayak excursion in Milford Sound the following morning.

Kayaking Milford Sound

Unfortunately our booking agent had been a little vague regarding the finer aspects of our kayak trip, so I wasn’t quite sure what to expect. Our morning began with an early rise at Te Anau where we began the two-hour drive to arrive in Milford Sound by 8am. The closer we got to Milford Sound the more obvious it became. As the darkness cleared the fog followed and our mountainous surroundings emerged. Gentle waterfalls and flowing streams were the only sound to be heard for miles.

Thankfully today wouldn’t be cancelled. It was clear and crisp, bitterly cold, but with the promise of warmth when the sun shone through. We were handed a pair of patterned thermal legging along with a matching T-shirt in the name of comfort. Over the top went our everyday clothes, kayak spray skirts and life jackets. Following a safety briefing, no time was wasted moving our kayaks down to the water's edge.

We glided on to the water just as the sun climbed high enough to emerge behind the mountains and glisten on the water. Due to the sheer size of the Fiordland, I noticed a distorted sense of size within my surroundings — what appeared to be a short distance would actually be kilometers away!

We were guided down the edge of the fiord, floating close to the flora whilst allowing the passing cruise boats through the middle. Up ahead lay the 1694-meter high Mitre peak — the most dominating sight in the fiord.

Our guide had previously mentioned a possibility of encountering fur seals during our time at Milford Sound. However, through fear of disappointment I had suppressed all notions of the idea. So you can imagine my delight when a group member pointed out a slithery whiskered creature playing on its back near the rocky edge. What a great surprise for the day, seeing a seal in its natural environment — the aching arms and damp behind were worth it after all.

How to explore the Milford Sound

Kayak trips exploring Milford Sound last about five hours and cost approximately NZ$110 (R638). Different companies operate from Milford Sound, but remember to book in advance. Morning or afternoon trips are available and for a charge of NZ$20 you can be picked up from Te Anau.

Alternately, you can skip the early rise and book accommodation at Milford Sound. Milford Sound Lodge is a great spot to experience the quiet and serene nature after the daily visitors have left. Prices start from $NZ28 (R162) per night. For more information visit www.milfordlodge.com.

If kayaking isn’t your forté it's probably best to take a cruise around the area. Leaving regularly, companies charge approximately NZ$70 (R406) for a two-hour journey. You can expect to pass directly beneath waterfalls, watch sea life from the observatory level and travel 22km to reach the Tasman Sea at the mouth of Milford Sound. With informative commentary on the fiord’s natural history and wildlife, cruising is certainly the most convenient way to get an overall feel for the area. Companies also offer an overnight cruise for the more adventurous.

If convenience is everything and money no object, then a scenic flight is the perfect way to discover the Fiordland area. Departing from Queenstown, Wanaka or Te Anau, scenic flights provide a unique experience in a fraction of the driving time. You will pass over the Southern Alps, flourishing rainforests and cascading waterfalls. Prices are approximately NZ$400 (R2300) for a fly and cruise combination. For more information visit www.milfordflights.co.nz.

Getting there

If you only have a day to spare, a coach tour from Queenstown to Milford Sound is your best bet. Journeys are long, yet drivers provide plenty of photo opportunities to capture the magnificent views. The captivating Milford Road (from Te Anau to Milford Sound) passes through some of the world’s most remarkable scenery and will certainly make up for the lengthy drive.

Alternately, if you have a couple of days to spare, Te Anau is a more suitable access point. Te Anau is a small town purposely geared towards tourism in the Fiordland area. With a good selection of accommodation, Te Anau acts as a perfect overnight stop between Queenstown and Milford Sound.

Te Anau is by no means a destination in itself, but it certainly exudes a subtle holiday feel. The small town predominantly acts as a gateway to the 15 fiords, Doubtful Sound being the second most popular. The Kepler Track also attracts crowds to the area. This walking track covers 67Km over a three to four day period. Accommodation for the walk can be booked with the Department Of Conservation. If you are an avid hiker you might also want to consider the three to four day Milford Track that climaxes to an arrival in Milford Sound on the last day.

Whether you chose to see Milford Sound from the seat of a kayak or bird's eye view, you will be struck by the spectacular scenery. Milford Sound offers visitors an unspoiled beauty that we so often think of as characteristically Kiwi. With its grand size and majestic nature, it’s no wonder Milford Sound is so often thought of as the crown jewel of New Zealand.