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The Thais celebrate New Year with a vigour characteristic of their sense of fun. A countrywide water fight cools everyone down during the hottest time of year and the chalk paste that they mix into the water and enthusiastically plaster all over each other (and me) symbolises purification.
A few adolescent boys try to steal a kiss as they rub the chalk into my face, but I manage to dodge them and when I enter the guesthouse I am in neutral territory. My friends are sitting at a table having some drinks, but their giant water guns are still ready for battle. They look like Mr and Mrs Smith.
While I join them for a Thai green curry and jasmine rice I think about the fact that this is the best way to start any new year: having fun on holiday with good friends.
The next morning we wake up to the chalk-laden sights of Thailand. The water has almost evaporated and all that is left of the epic New Year battle is a thick layer of chalk all along the roads.
Apart from that, all seems quiet and peaceful. It is only fitting then, to start the new Thai year with visiting some of Bangkok’s holiest sights: the Grand Palace and Wat Po, Temple of the Reclining Buddha. Many tourists have the same idea and although this is low season for tourism here, it’s still busy.
The Grand Palace is a sight far too grand to take in all at once. So many towers, so much gold, such artistic and intricate details… it’s exhausting, especially in the summer heat. Soon we move on to the Reclining Buddha around the corner. It’s gigantic; the largest reclining Buddha in the world.
Ah, to have covered that much sacred ground can only be good for the soul. Yet my favourite soul-soothing pastime is spending time in the mountains, which is where we are heading next.
"I’m from Mae Sa," says our taxi driver from Chiang Mai airport to Tri Gong Residence in the city. Funny that this valley where he grew up is just the place we were planning to go on our first day in the Thai jungle. Is this perhaps a tourist trick?
We decide to take our chances, barter for a good price and inform the driver about our preferred itinerary. He looks happy and we are chuffed that we will have Mr Pon showing us around his hometown rather than an anonymous tour guide. Win-win.
After a breakfast of Pad Thai at a small organic restaurant around the corner from our guesthouse, we are ready to make the most of our two full days in Chiang Mai, where Songkran is apparently celebrated with even more enthusiasm than in Bangkok.
"...Songkran is also celebrated wildly by the elephants..."
First up is elephant riding and Pon does well in finding us an elephant camp where an hour ride costs only 400 baht (about R95). The more popular tourist camps charge double that. My elephant has mosquito bites and stops regularly to scratch against a tree. His Thai master laughs with eyes full of love and I remember a movie I saw on my last trip to Thailand: the tragic tale of a Thai being separated from his elephant.
All is quiet, except for a few happy birds and the graceful footfall below me and in front of me.
When our safari is over I am in awe of this big animal which took me into the jungle and splashed jokingly through a river. Yes, Songkran is also celebrated wildly by the elephants as soon as they get a chance to walk through the water. I guess playing with water is a fun way for animals and people alike to get through the worst of the heat.
The elephant touches my hand lightly with its trunk and my heart becomes all fuzzy:"Goodbye, ellie".
To top this experience is going to be very hard today.
Our new friend Pon offers to take us to a traditional Nepalese hill tribe camp, but we decide to skip it this time and rather opt for a hiking trip on another visit during the cooler months, when we can pass through the more authentic villages.
Butterfly colour therapy
The drive through Mae Sa valley is a treat for the eyes and when we stop at a butterfly and orchid farm I feel like I am getting colour therapy. We sit down for a Thai buffet lunch in the garden and by the time our senses lose scent of the curries we are satisfied with our day. It’s hot and an afternoon nap sounds inviting.
However, we've already paid our driver for the whole day. So we convince him to take us to Doi Suthep, the top of the mountain as opposed to the valley. On the highest point of the mountain sits one of the holiest temples in Thailand. It is typically Thai, with elaborate gold towers and decorations in colours as bright as the orchids in the valley. The view should be incredible on a clear day, but in summer a mist hangs over the city.
It is indeed the hottest time of year and although Chiang Mai is probably best discovered on foot (preferably hiking through the jungle) that would simply be looking for trouble. So we opt for a boat cruise on our last full day. It offers an experience of both the city and the countryside. As with most boat cruises in the area, we also stop at a botanical garden where the locals show us an array of local herbs and invigorate us with pineapple, mango and dragon fruit slices as well as drinks. It’s a good break before getting ready for our journey back into the city.
We end our short visit to Chiang Mai with a shopping trip to the Night Bazaar, where I find my treasure: embroidered handbags in the style of the traditional wear of the hill tribes. The handicrafts in this area are unique and the best prices are to be found at this market. My friends choose some mango-wood candle holders and soon we are all happy with our souvenirs and ready to get into the new Thai year — relaxed, joyful and content.
Read more about Lize's travels at www.parisandpomegranates.blogspot.com.