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The powerful Victoria Falls themselves, one of the seven natural wonders of the world, have long since become an additional activity in the region, as opposed to the main attraction, specifically on the Zimbabwe side.
Yet if you've never seen the Victoria Falls, it's really a must — the ‘smoke that thunders’ is at its most impressive in the morning, and if you’re staying at one of the hotels closer to the falls, such as the Kingdom Hotel on the Zim side, you’re likely to feel the spray of the falls simply standing on your balcony.
In the rainy season, the spray can rise up to 800m, so when you visit the falls, take an umbrella with as you will get drenched!
If you have seen the falls, but your visit was after the 1960s, now is the perfect time to visit them again, with the Zambezi River currently at its fullest since the mid-1950s — much to the disappointment of an American tourist who, while recently visiting the Victoria Falls Hotel, asked what time the falls are "turned off" because they're simply too noisy at night.
Yet talk of Zimbabwe, and there’s no getting away from the question: Why visit the Vic Falls in Zim when you can see it from the Zambian side and avoid the politics in Zimbabwe at the same time?
Zambia’s Vic Falls' offerings are on par with that which you’ll find in Zimbabwe, but the difference lies in the falls themselves. Most of the 1.7km-wide-curtain is situated on the Zimbabwean side. In the dry season, from August onwards, the Zambian side is likely to dry up completely, meaning you'll need to be on the Zim side in order to see anything.
Moreover, it's completely safe on the Zimbabwean side. The tiny town of Victoria Falls, right next to the falls, is home to some 50 000 Zimbabweans, and is just a couple of minutes drive from the Zambian border.
When the wildlife goes to town
Not only is the town geared towards tourism, with most of the locals either employed by or reliant on the industry, but it's awash with nature, with locals, warthogs and baboons sharing the town’s green patches, and elephants known to trample their gardens — the local Wimpy was one of the most recent victims.
Because the town is dependent on tourists, you’re bound to be approached by hawkers selling their goods when strolling the streets, but chances are you won’t feel overwhelmed, and if you’re not interested in buying any goods you’ll be left alone.
The Zimbabwean side also offers an array of world class accommodation — from the slightly cheaper Kingdom Hotel to the luxurious, and more dear, Stanley & Livingstone Hotel. If you're looking to rough it, there are also backpacker options available to you.
A popular option is the Victoria Falls Hotel. The ‘grand old lady of Africa’ has been in operation for 103 years, and is the first Zimbabwean hotel to mark a centenary.
In fact, the luxurious colonial feel of the Victoria Falls Hotel has attracted the rich and famous, from the Royal Family to Chuck Norris, throughout its history. In 1947, King George VI, Queen Elizabeth and their daughters, the current Queen Elizabeth and Princess Margaret booked the entire hotel for their visit.Other famous visitors include Agatha Christie in the 1920s, Peter Sellers and Christiaan Barnard in the 1970s, and more recently Oprah Winfrey, Hillary Clinton and Sir Cliff Richard, to name a few.
Yet considering the hotel’s long life, it’s no surprise to hear that it also has its share of unexplained events. According to Nigel Newmarch, Groups Conferences Manager at the hotel, room 141 has frequent visits from a woman dressed in white who will burst into the room at approximately 4am, before disappearing. Newmarch says visitors to the hotel complained of the occurrence twice in the past year, following on from her frequent reappearance throughout the years. Also, during the 1920s a suitcase appeared mysteriously in one of the hotel’s rooms, packed with clothing belonging to a man. After a long search, hotel staff finally discovered the identity of the man the case belonged to. Problem was, he had died 50 years earlier, and neither he nor any family members had ever visited Africa.And back to the exotic dinners — warthog meat is a speciality dish at 'The Boma - Place of Eating', adjacent to the Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, and it's a must.
But supper there is not complete without a visit to the hut of the local n’anga (traditional healer); for R10 you can have him lay out your family and financial future as well as enjoy an interactive drumming session with a local drumming band.
As for the mopani worms: remember if you don’t ask what you’ve been handed to eat, you’re unlikely to be told — a mistake this writer won’t make again!
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iafrica.com travelled to Victoria Falls courtesy of Thompsons Tours, Nationwide Airlines and Shearwater Adventures.