The wildebeest migration across the Serengeti and Masai Mara is one of the world's great wildlife spectacles, but with nearly as many tourists as wild animals it can get a little crowded. Fiona McIntosh suggests another great migration without the hordes... of tourists, that is.

The Serengeti migration

Every year in October and November, the great Serengeti migration stirs up the dust of East Africa, as more than one million wildebeest, 200 000 zebra and 300 000 gazelles travel 1200km to reach new grazing lands. The most dramatic stage of this incredible journey, the ultimate example of the survival of the fittest, is the crossing of the Mara River, where thousands of animals drown or are picked off by crocodiles and other predators.

The migration is a journey unparalleled for drama or beauty anywhere else in the animal kingdom — a legend of Africa. Watching the savanna transform within a few short hours from gentle brown and yellow hues to a seething mass of black animals as far as the eye can see is one of nature’s defining spectacles.

Sounds great! What's the problem?

The Serengeti’s popularity is its own worst enemy. Every armchair nature lover has been guided through the migration by David Attenborough and friends innumerable times — which means there are innumerable visitors, paying top dollar to follow the herds. The main river crossings are now congested with animals fighting for survival and camera-happy tourists ooh-ing and aah-ing their amazement. (Which is fair enough, because it is amazing.)

Where to, then?

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Originally published in 'Don't climb Kilimanjaro' by Two Dogs.
Regarded as the second-largest animal migration around after Serengeti, the wildebeest’s annual migration to Zambia’s Liuwa Plains begins in November after the first rains. And that’s where the similarities with the Serengeti end.

The Liuwa Plains are almost inaccessible by comparison. To watch the migration you have two choices: either you gather together enough equipment to stock a small expedition — 4x4s only — or you go with a reputable safari operator. There is only one lodge in the area, so it’s tents and outdoor living for those who do make trip.

The Liuwa National Park is two days’ drive from Lusaka. And the park is as Africa should be: unspoilt, wide-open spaces filled with animals that haven’t become used to the sounds of people and their cars. An added bonus: by December, the plains have been carpeted with bright wild flowers that, when contrasted with the wildebeest, make for the most beautiful scenes you could imagine.

More info

www.zambiatourism.com

Alternatives

  • Caribou migration: The caribou of northern Canada apparently still follow the same migration patterns they did 27 000 years ago. Watch their ancient trek across the tundra, with the wolves in pursuit.
  • Monarch butterfly migration: Every year, millions of monarch butterflies make an incredible journey from as far away as Canada down to Mexico, to one of five official nesting sites in Michoacan. Hire a guide to take you to see blankets of butterflies covering the trees.


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