The low-down of Otter Trail

The Otter Trail isn’t South Africa's most famous hike for nothing. The scenery on the 43km stretch of coastline between Storm’s River and Nature’s Valley in the Eastern Cape’s Tsitsikamma Coastal National Park is simply mind-blowing, and challenges such as the Bloukrans River crossing give you plenty to brag about.

Make no mistake: this is no walk in the park, and unless you get yourself reasonably fit and pack very sensibly, carrying five day’s provisions up and down the hills of the rugged coastline soon begins to tell.

Most of the trail follows cliff tops, which reach up to 150m above the surf, with frequent returns to sea level to scramble over boulders, tramp through forest and negotiate rivers. Regular swim breaks in the sea or magnificent river pools are a must.

There are plenty of animals that share the trail with you and, besides the interesting birds, you may spot vervet monkeys, baboons, bushbuck, badgers, seals, dolphins, whales and, the trail’s namesake, the Cape clawless otter along your way.

If you’re really lucky, you could catch a caracal, genet or leopard sighting. Combined with the waterfalls and tannin-stained rivers, the crashing waves and inviting rock pools, the dense green forest and bush showers, the wonderfully located huts and the secluded sandy beach of Blue Bay, the Otter will take your breath away.

Sounds great; what's the problem?

You can’t get a place! Considering it is widely regarded as one of the world’s great hikes, it’s little wonder there’s usually a year-long waiting list. (I’ll let you in on a little secret, though: if you keep ringing the booking office, spots often come up at short notice. So persevere.)

Where to, then?

The Wild Coast is a remote, inaccessible stretch of deserted white beaches, dramatic cliffs, ruggedly beautiful green hills and smiling, colourful people. A marked hiking trail once ran the length of the Transkei, from the Umtamvuma River just south of Port Edward, 280km south to the Kei River near East London.

Sadly, much of the trail has been neglected and is in disrepair, with only hardy self-sufficient trekkers attempting the full whack.

But the most popular and arguably the most spectacular section, the 100km between Port St Johns and Coffee Bay, is one of the finest coastal walks in the world. You can still hike independently for the paltry sum of R30 — yes, for the whole trail, but you’ll need to carry a tent and supplies, as some of the huts are not well maintained. Or take a guided hike and stay with the communities, enjoying Xhosa hospitality at its best.

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Originally published in 'Don't climb Kilimanjaro' by Two Dogs.

The five-day trail is tough, with steep hills, river crossings — some of which have to be negotiated at low tide — and long sections of beach. There are basic huts at roughly 12km intervals, all in stunningly beautiful locations, as well as the odd hotel and backpacker’s en route where you can get a meal or even stay if you need a bit of pampering.

The route is reasonably well marked with the location of the next village or huts scrawled on rock markers or signposts, but given the plethora of footpaths you’ll probably end up getting lost once or twice. What the hell. It’s a fun place to wander, interacting with the local people going about their everyday tasks — and chances are you’ll end up being invited to sample the local brew. For the brave and wild.

More info

Bookings: 047 531 1191

Alternatives

Dolphin Trail: If you want the scenery without the schlep of the Otter, the upmarket, portaged Dolphin Trail, which follows the coastline east of Storm’s River, is a great option.

Cape Point: The two-day trail around the Cape Point Reserve is outstanding. And quite tough too.