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With several flights a week and a crazy travel schedule, Dan Nicholl spends a lot of time in hotels. Here he selects 10 of his favourites around South Africa…
The Castle at Kyalami
Alright, so this is spectacularly, blindingly, what-on-earth-were-you-thinking kitsch… but then that’s half the appeal. Red brick medieval doesn’t often make the cover of Architectural Digest, largely because not many people have decided to build a full replica castle in a rich, earthy hue. But if it’s garish on the outside, it’s considerably more understated on the inside, large rooms more luxury hotel than royal bedroom, with twin shower the most notable extravagance. Regular stay? No — but it does make for a quirky alternative now and again.
Wild Coast
There’s a slightly blue-collar feel to the Wild Coast Sun, as is so often the case with casino resorts, and the preponderance of families on holiday means this is
usually somewhere I’d avoid like the plague. But some of the best Indian food I’ve had in South Africa has been here, and early morning walks on the adjoining beach are great tonic for the jaded soul. Plus there’s a golf course with some of the most spectacular holes in the country.
Mandazur at San Lameer
Another resort that’s not out and out five-star (whoever mans the washing-up department at San Lameer should be shot with immediate effect), but which has plenty of charm nonetheless. The golf course is awash with water — the guy who designed it, I have no doubt, is the same guy who designed Venice — but it’s an attractive challenge. Chief attribute, however, is a novel bath bang in the middle of the room that I seem to spend an inordinate amount of time in whenever I’m at San Lameer. I may even have fallen asleep in it once or twice.
Fancourt
There’s a reason that Hasso Plattner’s Garden Route hobby remains
extraordinarily popular, and it’s not just four outstanding golf courses. Whether you’re in a suite looking out over the Montagu course, or up in the main hotel, Fancourt is a polished example of five-star resort management. I’m at Fancourt maybe half a dozen times a year at most, but the porters always remember my name, and the staff are great. As is the spa: the moment I have my waterproof laptop, I’ll be in the jacuzzi most of the day.
Pezula
Ryk Neethling and Roland Schoeman, I have it on good authority, have trained for big events in the bathtubs at Pezula, which are quite possibly the biggest on the planet — I’ve lowered my best time for a length to a shade under four minutes. The bathrooms (which include a magnificent walk-in shower) form part of my favourite suites in the country, all dark wood and simmering elegance.
R50 for a bag of jelly beans from the minibar illustrates the opulence you’re looking at here, but with Zachary’s restaurant a triumphant blend of American chef and local produce, and the spa exceptional (although look out for the Phumla massage, which can be brutal if you’re a sensitive type), this is as good as it gets in South Africa. And they’ve got a hell of a golf course to boot.
Zimbali
Much of my travel takes me to resorts for work; this is where I go to switch off the phone and laptop, and recharge. The dark wood suites peering out over a richly verdant canopy, which in turn leads onto a shimmering blue Indian Ocean horizon, is quite breathtaking on first visit; the serenity of the place, however, is the chief attraction. Lazing by the side of the infinity pool, exertion limited to ordering more sauvignon blanc, and slipping into the water for an occasional swim. Throw in a splendid restaurant and a golf course surrounded by forest and ocean, and there are few places in South Africa I’m happier.
Western Cape Hotel and
Spa
Lying in the bath (I’m big on baths, as you may have gathered), champagne in hand, watching television across the room: there are few better ways to round off a day of golf, particularly if the weather has bared its teeth at Arabella. An outstanding course lies within the context of an equally exquisite hotel, from the spa (clothing optional: beware of liberal German pensioners out on holiday) to the restaurants, and Barnaby’s, a whiskey bar I’ve spent more time at than is good for me. John Bumpsteed runs a splendid golf operation; he’s got a cracker of a hotel to back him up.
Grand Roche
When you’re away from home as much as I am, hotel rooms tend to blur into one another; something a little different is always welcome. The Grand Roche offers suites complete with lounge and generous spread of bathroom, spilling out onto a private veranda that overlooks the vineyards of Paarl. The combination is both relaxing and indulgent; and
while there’s a walk up through the hills behind the hotel that offers panoramic views, and the option of jumping on complimentary mountain bikes, I’m afraid a wilful lethargy overtakes me at the Grand Roche – a gentle stroll to the restaurant is about as far as I’m going.
12 Apostles
Pure romance, this, and ideal honeymoon territory. Sitting on the deck overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, sun sparkling off the waves, and taking in the backdrop of the mountain makes the 12 Apostles a star attraction in Cape Town. Bedrooms rich in white add to the sense of light that plays about the hotel, while the Leopard Lounge has a quiet rock star feel to it – the Rolling Stones having a quiet drink on their night off, if you like. Best of all, though, is the private cinema at the hotel. Notting Hill on your own big screen over a bottle of champagne? Sold.
Mont Rochelle
Franschhoek’s my regular bolthole, particularly if I’ve
had a month of non-stop travel and need a few days away. Mont Rochelle is perfect for that: close to my favourite Franschhoek indulgences, but secluded enough to escape the cloying mass of tourists who’ve also made a Huguenot pilgrimage. Suites falling away onto the valley, and set away from the main hotel (with private guest lounge) complete the escapism; and the Mont Rochelle boasts the best breakfast I’ve had anywhere, South Africa and beyond.
Dan Nicholl is Contributing Editor to iafrica.com's Sport section