From the magnificent columned gate with pith-helmeted guards and palm-lined driveway, to the patented pink colour of the walls and famous 'high teas', the hotel is one of the city's best-known landmarks, framed by the striking Table Mountain in the background.

'The Nellie'

The Nellie as it is affectionately known, has been playing host to the well-heeled for more than a century, and despite the ravages of time, world wars, the country's isolation and competition from the city's newer five-star establishments, has managed to maintain its timeless elegance and tradition of excellence.

While detractors may label it iniquitously overpriced and stuffily traditional, the hotel is still popular, proving that after all these years, it has perfected what it does and knows how to give its guests what they want.

Established in 1899 by shipping magnate Sir Donald Currie to accommodate passengers off the famous Union Castle cruise liners, it is now owned by Orient Express Hotels, who have maintained its levels of attentive service and unabashed opulence, which make it the first choice of many celebrities, tycoons and royalty.

Rubbing shoulders with celebrities

The likes of Winston Churchill, Noel Coward and Agatha Christie right through to Tiger Woods, Lenny Kravitz, Oprah Winfrey, Jean Paul Gaultier, Bono and recently Will Young have all been spotted in the hotel. Given the absolute discretion of the staff, one wonders how many other famous names have also bedded down within those pink walls.

One of the establishment's strong points is its gradual evolution without alienating or losing its sense of tradition. The hotel has extended over the years from the main building to add on the Oasis and other wings, while also buying up neighbouring properties and even a hotel (The Helmsley), to take the number of rooms to 201. But with rooms so widely spread across its nine acres of landscaped gardens, it doesn't feel like a mega-hotel, although it has the reputation of one.

Nestling under Table Mountain

Refurbishment

In recent years the Mount Nelson started looking a little worn, but the refurbishment at the hands of celebrated designer Graham Viney has re-established it as one of the world's leading hotels.

Viney also brought it firmly into the 21st century with the super-chic Planet Bar, which has Cape Town's trendy cocktail crowd flocking for its decadent cocktails and eclectic décor, complete with its solar system installation and fibre optic stars on the ceiling representing the Milky Way. I'm still smarting from having confused Lord Nelson's face on the back of the barstools for George Washington, but I can blame the cocktails, I guess.

One of the luxuries (and luxury does seem to be the operative word here) of staying over is not having to go too far after the aforementioned cocktails and a rich, heavy and hearty meal at the fine Cape Colony restaurant.

Deluxe suite

Viney has also waved his magic design wand over the Garden Cottages, a row of quaint Victorian cottages tucked away at the back of the hotel next to the hotel's second, more peaceful (no kids allowed) pool.

One of the luxury suites

The deluxe suite I had the pleasure of occupying was perfectly private and far removed from the bustle of the main hotel. It comprised a living area tastefully decorated in soothing soft greys and creams and featuring a mini-kitchenette and the usual mini-bar, comfortable sofas with oversized, puffed up cushions, a flat screen television and bookcase. This opened onto the front verandah overlooking a line of blooming standard roses, while the bedroom had its own private courtyard.

The most interesting feature of the bedroom, and all the rooms in the hotel, is the mirrored cabinet at the foot of the enormous bed. Press a button on the wall and the television emerges out of it, perfect for watching one of the hotel's collection of Oscar-winning DVDs, although I was disappointed by the selection of satellite TV channels and the only two radio stations on offer. Flip the switch again and the room loses the ugly clutter of a television set.

The bathrooms are also a design tour de force, oversized, with striking black and white marble, bevelled mirrors and lighting giving it a distinctly art-deco feel.

Plush opulence

The suites exude plush opulence, with every whim attended to, from the fruit platter and good vintage red wine that awaits you on arrival to a crisp newspaper delivered to your door, even if there are no chocolates on the pillows here. You really do feel a million dollars.

But there's the rub. Because even if I had that, would I be able to justify spending R10 000 a night for this privilege? I'm still debating it….