As Veronica’s fingers deftly manipulate the tense muscles in my back and shoulders, my mind drifts over the morning spent whale watching in Plettenberg Bay.

Seasickness aside, there was something truly magical about the leisurely movements of the humpback whale and her calf. Even more fascinating, was the skipper’s underwater recording of the humpback’s song.

These ‘songs’ are the hauntingly beautiful combinations of sounds made by whales as they communicate with one another. Although the exact purpose of a humpback’s song remains a mystery, the complex string of pitches — which can last up to three hours — are ‘sung’ almost exclusively in the mating ground – a whale serenading his lover.

With these thoughts floating through my mind, it struck me that Whalesong Hotel & Hydro, where Vanessa is working her magic, is a fitting name for the romantic, laidback lodge that overlooks the Keurbooms coastline and the Tsitsikamma mountain range. Set against a hill at the entrance to Plettenberg Bay on the Garden Route, this charming getaway provides an easily accessible respite for weary travellers and those looking to unwind.

Having a whale of a time

The luxury rooms — each with cool black stone tiles, woven accessories, African art, thatched roofs and deep baths — have their own wooden patios, which look out over carefully manicured lawns and distinctly South African flowerbeds filled with daisies and fynbos.

Dotted across the hillside, the rooms are connected to the reception area, lounge, swimming area and restaurant by gently sloping paths and wooden ramps. Currently painted an earthy beige colour, the lodge is due to undergo a minor refurbishment in which it will be painted white and the African décor replaced with more seaside-themed motifs.

The swimming pool is situated in a wooden deck which overlooks a stretch of the coast to the right and an expanse of mountainous greenery to the left. This view is marred only slightly by the small industrial area and glaringly branded Shell garage which are situated unfortunately close to the lodge.

The lounge hosts a magnificent fireplace, and is the perfect place to snuggle up with a cup of hot coffee or a glass of sherry, when the unpredictable Cape weather turns chilly.

Feeling like a beached whale…

The restaurant, @Whales, has a covered deck which overlooks the ocean and, with its comfy couches and low coffee tables, provides the perfect setting to relax, sip cocktails and watch the sun go down as you wait for the chef to prepare a delicious dinner.

Delicious, is perhaps a fairly simple way to describe the variety of tastes, textures and artistically prepared dishes that accosted our senses as we sat down to a five-course meal – delicate watermelon, strawberry and celery soup, crisply toasted bruchetta topped with sweet peppers, prawns in a spicy Napolitano sauce, a sumptuous seafood platter and a trio of decadent chocolate desserts.

This tasty meal was presided over by the lodge’s charismatic and attentive hosts Abri and Henko, who plied us with food and drinks, told captivating stories and made sure that every minute detail of our stay was pleasant and memorable. If for no other reason, these two gentlemen make Whalesong worth a visit…

Time for a salt scrub and seaweed wrap…

Attached to the hotel is the Von Zoe Beauty Salon, the Health Hydro and The Greenhouse Hairstylists. Before submitting to Veronica’s capable hands, I popped in to the beauty salon where Celeste purified and cleansed my face in one of the salon’s basic facials.

As she painted the thick, cool paste onto my face she chatted about the range of treatments which the salon offers, from facial peels and manicures to laser therapy and air massages. Air massages? Think of blood pressure cuffs strapped around different parts of your body and set to slowly inflate and deflate. Apparently it facilitates lymph drainage.

Before I was sucked in to having my entire body groomed and beautified, I set off for the Health Hydro, which offers a range of wraps, scrubs and massages. I opt for the combo massage which combines a back and shoulder massage with a little bit of reflexology.

Veronica has finished on my back and is exploring all the little ‘crystals’ in my feet with her intuitive fingers. I get more than I bargained for when she begins to tell me what my feet have to say about my personality and health. Far too quickly my hour is up and I head off for the Greenhouse to have my hair washed and styled.

And then? A long fortifying soak in the bath in preparation for the delightful evening of wining and dining that I know awaits me…

    Sound like a good time?
  • Find out more about Whalesong Hotel & Hydro at www.legendlodges.co.za or call (044) 533 5389.