Nestled in the northern foothills of the Cederberg, a region known as Agter-Pakhuis, lies Bushmans Kloof, an oasis in this otherwise unforgiving landscape. A special pocket of life and fertility where water flows the year round and towering trees throw welcome patches of shade on the earth.

Rebirth of a forgotten land…
Built up over many years of dedicated hard work by the McAdam family, the Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve covers over 8000 hectares of the Cederberg that was once farmland. Whilst a few of the scars of farming remain, by and large the reserve has been returned to its original state. Fynbos blooms where furrows once grew potatoes and onions, and numerous species of game that had all but disappeared have been re-introduced to their natural habitat.

Red Hartebees in the reserve

Nestled in a small valley on the western edge of the reserve is the main lodge and restaurant, conspicuous more by the lush green gardens than the man-made buildings. As a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux hotel association, the lodge is the very embodiment of the association’s core principles of Character, Charm, Calm, Cuisine and Courtesy. With just over two staff members per guest, you can be assured of excellent service from the second you step inside to be greeted by a glass of chilled rooibos tea and a cool cloth, to the moment your freshly-washed car is delivered to your doorstep for the journey home.

The lodge has 16 rooms and suites accommodating a maximum of 32 guests at any one time, so you are assured of peace and quiet far from the madding crowd. Our ‘Rockpool suite’ was the definition of country charm, with heavy wooden furniture and earthen-ware tiled floors made cosy by embroidered cushions and homely fabrics. A large fireplace in the separate sitting-room is simply ideal for cold winter’s nights, while the small front patio comes with comfortable loungers just made for watching the sunrise while sipping that first cup of coffee.

After a quick dip in one of the four swimming pools overlooking the Boontjies Rivier that flows in front of the lodge it was time for the obligatory high tea. A delectable spread of sweets and savouries it was the perfect opportunity to build up some strength for the ‘gruelling’ game drive ahead.

Comfortably settled under warm woollen blankets on the back of the open land rover, the sun made it’s slow journey westwards as we headed out into the reserve for an evening game drive. The reserve is home to over 35 species of mammals and 150 varieties of birds, all making their home amongst the innumerable plant species found in the reserve. In amongst the usual collection of bontebok, springbok and blue duiker that you’re likely to come across, you may also be lucky enough to find the rare and endangered Cape Mountain Zebra. With only 1200 of these animals left worldwide, Bushmans Kloof protects one of the largest breeding herds on private land.

One of the nicest aspects of the evening game drive is the sundowner stop in the reserve. In the blink of an eye the ever-attendant rangers transform the ‘landies’ from a rough reserve workhorse into a well-stocked bar in the bush. Safe in the knowledge that there aren’t any predators nearby with an eye on your ‘droewors’, all there is to do is take another sip of that whisky and drink in the sun setting the sandstone cliffs on fire.

With the temperature dropping as quickly as the sun the twinkling lights of the lodge were a welcome sight. There’s no rest for the wicked though, as dinner is served at around eight and if you want to squeeze in a friendly chat at the well-stocked bar there’s no time for hanging around.

Head chef Harald Paul specialises in stylish contemporary country cuisine — seasonal dishes with their roots in cape heritage and their ingredients from the remarkable garden behind the lodge. The lodge grows most of it’s own vegetables along organic principles and each morning the chefs stroll through the garden and fashion the evening’s menu around what is ripe to be eaten. Expect dishes like Oven-Roasted Butternut Soup with a biltong cream for starters, followed by Pan-seared Cape Salmon served with Home-made Taglioni. And don’t be surprised to find your meal served by your ranger from the game drive. From identifying a rare species of restio grass to recommending an after-dinner whisky, they are trained to answer seemingly anything you could possibly ask them.

'The World’s Largest Open-air Art Gallery'
After an early-morning coffee and rusk out on the reserve, guests that have managed to rouse themselves set off on a sort walk to view some of the San rock art that the reserve is famous for. Billed as ‘The World’s Largest Open-air Art Gallery’, Bushman’s Kloof boasts over 130 separate rock art sites, and is custodian of some of the finest examples of San rock art in South Africa. With the recent addition of two resident archaeologists, the lodge is able to provide guests with an incredible amount of insight and knowledge into the history behind these ancient paintings. Whether these ochre images painted on sandstone overhangs are historical record or shamanic visions it’s difficult to say, but they are certainly an invaluable part of South Africa’s heritage that deserves the highest level of protection.

Resident horticulturist, Bruce 'Flatty' Stewart has spent seven years creating Bushmans Kloof's incredible gardens and vegetable "factory," as he calls it. The reserve grows almost all their own vegetables and is also heavily involved in growing rare indigenous trees. If you're at all interested in plants, ask for a guided tour of the gardens - Flatty's enthusiasm is infectious!

With both our mind and our appetites stimulated by the rock art walk, it was time to head back to the lodge for brunch in the ‘Spannners’ Boma, overlooking lawns sweeping down to the river. The lawns are cut twice a week and watered twice a day to keep them in their magnificent condition. The brunch buffet is smaller than you may expect yet offers something for everyone, from a fine array of healthy fruit and cereals to a full English for those with a serious appetite. Make sure you get there before the smoked salmon and cream cheese is all gone! Over brunch one of the new owners, Toni Tollman, excitedly told us about the exciting plans they have for the reserve, which include upgrading the few luxury rooms to full suites, and setting up a tented camp out in the reserve. Keep an eye out for those in 2004/05!

And just like that, it was time to leave again. A one night stay was simply not long enough to explore all that Bushmans Kloof has to offer, and not nearly enough time to do what one should really do there: just sit and take in the silence and beauty of the surrounding mountains. But we’ll be back there sometime, heading back over the Agter-Pakhuis pass to a place where time seems to stand still for a moment and you’re always assured of a warm welcome.

Contact Bushmans Kloof
For more information, visit the Bushmans Kloof website, or contact them on +27 21 797 0990. You can also send an email to info@bushmanskloof.co.za