Tall, wild grasses in hues of orange,yellow and red cover the undulating hillsides like a shaggy carpet, waving in the soft breeze. White puffs of clouds float by benevolently in an enormous, sapphire sky. It doesn’t take long for city tensions and worries to melt away as you drive through the vast open spaces of Golden Gate.

Towering cliffs resembling animal shapes loom on either side of the approach road which follows the Little Caledon River. The soft rock at the bottom of the cliffs (Red Beds and Cave Sandstone) eroded faster than the top layer (Drakensberg basalt), creating overhangs and steep faces. One of the most impressive features carved over millions of years by water, wind and variations in temperature is Cathedral Cave, which is about the size of a soccer field. These days, it serves as a breeding home for the rare bald ibis.

As the sun sets, it’s easy to see how the park got its name from the glowing shades of gold on the sandstone cliffs. This is most noticeable on the imposing Brandwag, which looms magnificently near the Glen Reenen camp site and chalets, a long-time favourite with visitors. New to the park are eight luxurious wooden chalets perched on the upper reaches of Wodehouse Peak, 2260 metres above sea level, off Oribi Loop. Highlands Mountain Retreat has been cleverly disguised to blend in with the surroundings.

You can hardly see the log cabins from the road and not at all from the rest of the park as grass covers the tops of the roofs. The retreat is reached via a long and winding cement road which gets steeper and steeper as you progress.

There’s always something dramatic about staying in a mountain cottage. Add an explosive summer storm — roaring thunder, sheets of lightning and heavy rain — and you’ll find yourself rapidly getting back in touch with nature and gaining a fresh perspective on life.

Fresh, crisp air

The sun rises directly in front of the chalets, creating a crimson glow over the landscape. Standing on your balcony, you can drink in the expansive scene — crests, gorges, cliffs, ridges, valleys and mighty rows of mountains marching through Lesotho to the Drakensberg. After a storm, the air is crisp and clean, the clouds drifting softly away. A perfect day to explore or just chill out!

But first, breakfast. The Brandwag Hotel offers a substantial buffet spread in its restaurant that is generous enough to keep you going for the rest of the day. Although this big hotel has always looked like a bit of a blot on the pristine landscape, the views from its wide windows are impressive. South African National Parks (Sanparks) took it over from Protea Hotels last year and the staff are friendly and helpful. But the inherited hotel décor, with highly patterned carpets and curtains, could do with the make-over that’s apparently on the cards. In the meantime, it’s an affordable alternative to self-catering.

The splendid scenery alone makes this park well worth a visit; in fact, it was originally proclaimed to preserve the dramatic landscape, rather than the habitat. There’s also lots to do in and around the park, including walking, hiking, biking, horse riding and wildlife viewing — you may be lucky enough to see rare bearded and Cape vultures as well as eland, oribi and other highland fauna. Or you can head into Clarens to potter about the craft shops and stock up on cherries from Ficksberg in season, then head back to your log cabin for an afternoon siesta.

The Highlands Mountain Retreat’s cabins have been decorated superbly with chunky, handcrafted wooden furniture, cosy curtains and beaded cushions. Extra touches of luxury include fluffy white towels laid out on the beds and lavender hand creams, shower gels and shampoos in the en suite bathrooms. For winter nights, there are oil heaters and electric blankets. Even wood, firelighters and matches are provided. You certainly get your money’s worth.

Ensconced in these comfortable surroundings, a weekend passes far too quickly. You can sit on the wide balcony and gaze out into the distance forever. Long-tailed whydahs flit just above the tall, lush red grass blowing in the gentle breeze. A black-backed jackal digs in the sand a little way off. Cumulus clouds form curious, ever-changing shapes in the blue sky. As the day comes to an end, the hills and mountains move through the colour spectrum, glowing like precious metals. It’s one of those places where you can easily lose yourself and sit with a book on your lap for hours without ever turning a page. Magical!

Fauna and flora

A variety of montane and grassland bird species will keep twichers entertained. Check for Cape and bearded vultures, Verreauxs’ and martial eagles, jackal buzzard, lanner and peregrine falcons above the cliffs. Highland specials include buff-streaked chat, sentinel and Cape rock thrush, orange-breasted rock jumper, African rock pipit, ground woodpecker, Gurney’s sugarbird and lazy cisticola.

Look out for zebras and 10 different antelope species on game drives. The dominant veld type is highland sourveld. When hiking, you’ll notice trees with flaking black bark and silky-haired leaves. They’re called ouhout (Leucosidea sericea) because of the aged appearance of the twisted trunks and the fact that it burns like rotten wood. They are used by some 117 species of beetles which are found in the park. Isolated patches of protea woodland (P caffra, P roupelliae and P subvestita) also occur.

This is the only grassland national park in South Africa. There are over 60 species of grasses, the most common being red oat grass (Themeda triandra), tussock grass (Festuca costata) and thatch grass (Hyparrhenia hirta). The one that gets stuck in your socks is the three-awn steekgras (Aristida spp).

Six things to do in Golden Gate

  • Join Gideon Groenewald on one of his fossil tours (058-256-1314). You can see dinosaur eggs and bones as well as learn about the geology of the area.
  • Spot a bearded vulture at the vulture restaurant on Oribi Loop.
  • Hike the two-day, 28-kilometre Ribbok Hiking Trail (R90 a person).
  • Take one of the short hikes (one to five hours duration), including a walk round Brandwag, Mushroom Rock and Echo Ravine.
  • Swim in the Little Caledon River’s natural rock pool at Glen Reenen.
  • Ride a horse through the park. It costs R55 a person for an hour, R90 for two. Contact: Book all park activities on tel 058-255-0012.

This feature originally appeared in Getaway Magazine.


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