Some people refer to Joburg as the ‘Big Smoke’, others call it the ‘Great Forest’ for the vast tract of planted woodland stretching north from the Westcliff-Parktown ridge.

Whatever your preference, it is always good to get away from the high walls, security complexes and rush-hour traffic to recharge your soul in a real forest. Thankfully, you don’t have to travel far to find peace and quiet on the Highveld. Less than an hour’s drive away, within the greater World Heritage Site of the Cradle of Humankind, is the privately owned Cradle Nature Reserve.

Rhinos, giraffes and 13 different antelope species roam freely about the 3 000 hectares of woods and grassland. Although you probably wouldn’t visit the Cradle primarily to spot game — it’s more of a general nature hideaway — you will catch glimpses of wild animals on drives (guided or self-drive), horse rides and bush walks.

Farm manager and guide Vusi Nkosi, who has been working at the Cradle for 12 years, is very enthusiastic about showing guests the reserve on foot. During our two-hour walk, he pointed out giraffes browsing the acacias and zebras, eland and red hartebeest on the grasslands. Leopards, brown hyenas and caracal occur naturally here but they keep a low profile, so you’re more likely to just see their spoor. There are more than 210 bird species and you could spot crimson-breasted shrikes, long-legged snake eagles, red-footed kestrels, European bee-eaters and giant kingfishers.

Early life forms

The rocks on the reserve hold many fascinating clues to earth’s early history. You can walk up a small hill to see a field of stromatolytes. These fossils of blue-green algae are considered to be one of the first life forms on earth. Their oxygen-creating properties are believed to have helped turn our skies from red to blue. As testament to the whole area originally being underwater, you can see ripples in the rock on certain ridges in the reserve showing where the tide went out around 750 million years ago. If the idea of staying in indigenous forest near a stream appeals, book into a cottage at Forest Camp. The A-frame, wood-and-thatch chalets are spread out among river bushwillows (Combretum erythorophyllum), white stinkwoods (Celtis africana), African wild olives (Olea europaea subsp. africana), karees and acacias.

There’s just enough room to fit two forest-loving adults in the open-plan chalets that are bedroom, kitchen and lounge. But in such a sylvan setting, most of your time will be spent sitting outdoors, either on the wooden balcony or round the campfire next to your cottage. If you’re quiet, you’ll be able to see waterbuck, kudu and steenbok.

In the mornings, listen for the crested barbets calling their mates and the tap-tap of woodpeckers. There’s also the option of overnighting at Katrina’s House, set on a rise outside the forest, offering lovely views over the reserve. This 100-year old farmhouse has been renovated but retains much of its original character – thick mud walls, tin roof, deep stoep, low doorways and small windows. It’s simply furnished but oozes atmosphere.

Wine and dine while you relax

If cooking for yourself doesn’t appeal, dine at the reserve’s restaurant, an elevated construction of stone, steel and glass. To clear up any lingering confusion among regulars to this area, Cornuti’s has been renamed The Cradle Restaurant after an ownership change. It now belongs solely to the reserve’s owners, the Bailey family. It still has the larney décor and sublime views over the Cradle, but the food is much better than when Getaway visited previously. Service was professional and, even though the menu changes frequently, the staff had a good grasp of the finer ingredients.

For dinner, I enjoyed an interestingly sweet starter of vanilla-pod poached pear with Gorgonzola (R38), followed by a perfectly grilled ostrich fillet with vanilla and pineapple jus (R85), concluding with a to-die-for chocolate mousse (R35). My husband opted for venison carpaccio (R45), a delicious veal saltimbocca (R75) and a rich almond and marsala mascarpone dessert (R40).

The breakfasts at the Cradle are equally scrumptious. Expect to be tempted by the likes of coconut lime pancakes with fresh melon and papaya (R35), smoked salmon eggs Benedict (R45), giant cardamom and pineapple muffins (R35) or, if you’re not that adventurous, the traditional cook-up (R65).

You may make all sorts of plans to explore our rich fossil heritage in the area, but this private reserve is so restful, you’ll probably find yourself contentedly spending the day at your lodgings, gazing up into the trees, watching birds or being lulled into taking an afternoon nap. The Cradle Nature Reserve is a place to linger.

This feature originally appeared in Getaway Magazine.


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