Paarl occupies a strange position in the tourism hierarchy of the Western Cape. Not as picturesque as Stellenbosch, nor trendy as Franschhoek, it?s never quite had the magnetism of its winelands cousins.

But as I discovered recently this reputation is widely undeserved, for although the gems may not be as obviously strewn amongst the oak-lined avenues like Stellenbosch or surrounded by designer outlets, Paarl has a unique charm that is steadily attracting an ever-increasing number of visitors.

Perhaps what sets the town apart from the rest of the winelands is that it hasn?t sold its soul to tourism; it's still very much a self-sufficient town with tourism playing a supporting, rather than dominating, role.

Any visit to Paarl simply has to begin at the infamous Taal Monument, the controversial memorial to the Afrikaans language. When it was erected in 1975, critics are said to have joked that monuments were usually erected to the dead! Nonetheless it has become an important cultural monument for many Afrikaners, and is one of the defining features of the town.

Not far from the Taal Monument along the picturesque Jan Phillips Mountain Drive is the granite monolith that gave the town its name, Paarl Rock. When the free burgher Abraham Gabemma set off from Jan van Riebeeck?s fledgling Cape Colony one morning in, the sight of the granite outcrop gleaming after a rainstorm prompted him to name it ?Peerleberg?; Pearl Mountain. The view of the surrounding winelands from the top of either Paarl or Bretagne Rock (the two main outcrops) is well worth the walk up.

Down below, it's easy to see the main road running north to south through town. Towards the southern end of town, past the renowned Laborie vineyards and winery, is the historic Strooidak church. Built in the early 19th century, the church lays claim to being the oldest Dutch reformed church in South Africa. The church is unfortunately only open on certain mornings of the week, but the attractive churchyard is open to the public allowing you to freely admire the outside of this historic church.

Further up the Main Street, past the amusingly named Vergenoegd (literally ?far enough?) old-age home, is the Paarl Museum housed in an impressive Cape Dutch building dating back to 1787. The museum has an interesting collection of Victorian bric-a-brac, historic Cape furniture, artefacts and photographs illustrating the development of Paarl through the years.

There's wine-tasting galore on the farms and wineries in and around town, but Paarl has also become one of the Cape?s hidden gems for great food and great hospitality. Leading the pack in this neck of the woods is Grande Roche, the five-star Relais & Chateaux guesthouse tucked away in the vineyards just beneath the famous granite outcrop.

No new kid on the block

Tracing its history back to 1717 when a grant of land was given to Hermanus Bosman, the local 'sick comforter' and assistant to the Reverend Simond, the Grande Roche estate is by no means a new kid on the block.

After numerous renovations and reincarnations through the centuries, it was in 1991 that the historic estate was restored to its former glory; hard work that was recognised in 1993 with the entire estate being declared a national monument.

Beautifully restored, a sense of history pervades the elegant suites and standard rooms of the estate. Spread amongst small vineyards, the luxurious rooms have all the standard mod-cons you?d expect of a five-star hotel, and are each individually decorated. A handful of suites have recently been completely renovated, and now bring a touch of modern design chic to the traditional Cape cottages.

Thatched roofs and shuttered windows are in keeping with the vernacular style, while trailing vines overhanging your private terrace provide the perfect place to escape from the searing summer sun while you drink in the vistas below. If you?re more the active type, the estate offers mountain-biking and walking trails, as well as a fully-equipped gymnasium and tennis courts.

You?ll need to work up an appetite if you?re going to take full advantage of Bosman?s, the award-winning signature restaurant at Grande Roche. Set in the 18th century manor house, the restaurant is a formal affair where fine crystal and chandeliers set the scene, although the open-plan view to the hotel's informal lobby can be distracting.

Rated by Conde Nast Traveller?

Under the experienced hand of Executive Chef Roland Gorgosilich, there are three unique menus on offer ? a la carte, vegetarian and the Tasting Menu ( click here to see what's currently on offer). The prices aren't shy and some dishes don?t quite hit the mark, but for a taste of grand European dining with an injection of local flavours it is certainly setting a benchmark in the winelands.

With 'wine' being the operative word. With a wine list resembling a volume of Encyclopaedia Britannica it's no surprise that the restaurant has picked up a Wine Spectator award for its comprehensive Cape wine list. As with the menu, prices are certainly geared towards a foreign market, but you'll still find a reasonably-priced bottle if you choose carefully.

With its superb winelands location and acclaimed restaurant, Grande Roche recently bagged 29th best hotel in the world in the prestigious Conde Naste Traveller Reader Awards 2009, and named 5th best resort in all of Africa. They're worthy accolades that show just how popular Grande Roche ? and the Cape winelands ? have become with well-heeled travellers. If only old Abraham Gabemma could see his 'Pearl' now.