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It's April and it's so hot that my shirt is stuck to the car seat. Exactly one hour from Cape Town we've left behind the city smog and entered the little valley of Tulbagh, and it's sweltering.
Driving down historic Church Street you can almost imagine a horse and cart trotting alongside. The Cape Dutch buildings are so well-preserved (or should we say restored, after the devastating earthwuake in 1969) that it smacks of times gone by.
And then there are those special touches like local art and craft shops which offer 'tuisgebakte' goodies, the landmark local wineries and the feel of the place that one would associate with early settlers to the area.
But first impressions aside, Tulbagh is actually a cosmopolitan hub with the many foreigners that live here giving the place that international flavour.
This fertile basin, surrounded by the majestic Winterhoek and Witzenberg mountains, is also home to Rijk's Country House where we would be staying for the night at the start of our 'Route 62' holiday.
Having undergone an extensive refurb, Rijk's was recently added to the African Pride Hotels portfolio, and so another reason I was curious to visit.
This five-star property is set just on the outskirts of town amongst the vineyards, with Rijk's Private Cellar a short distance away — the perfect excuse for some wine tasting as well.
After checking in, and resisting the urge to stay in our air-conditioned room (enticing as the complimentary cheese and wine in the suite was), we made our way to the pool.
I was rather surprised when just chilling by the pool the bartender came and offered me a drink. Aaahh... Savannah, sun, scenery, swimming pool... I marvelled.
Classic white iceberg roses line the Cape Dutch cottages which are dotted in a circle around the property — giving you a little space from your 'neighbours'.
At Rijks there are 12 superior suites and three two-bedroomed family cottages which each have their own patio where you can linger as the sun sets in the distance. And so we did, with a chilled bottle of Rijk's Chardonnay.
Time for dinner
Since it was still sweltering it was the perfect evening to dine al fresco amongst the roses, the starry night sky in view. I can imagine that one would also be rather comfy inside in winter, the country-style décor lending generous warmth.
Rijk's summer menu features starters like sushi with salmon and prawns accompanied by onion seed sprouts and toasted sesame seeds (R45), which goes marvelously with Rijk's Chardonnay.
Then there's an exotic Aubergine involtini served with goat's cheese, sundried tomato and pine nuts (R38), or a berry encrusted ostrich Carpaccio served with a brandy vinaigrette (R38), which would work well with their Cabernet Merlot.
Rijk's wines are a great choice to go with your meal, and it would be a tragedy not to try them while at the farm. The Shiraz and Cab/Merlot definitely get my vote.
Other wines on offer include Ken Forrester, Groote Post, Glen Carlou, Hamilton Russell, Vergelegen and the iconic Meerlust Rubicon.
For main course grilled springbok and rosemary espetada's served on parsley and olive mash with grilled vine tomatoes and a béarnaise sauce (R125) takes centre stage.
But the oven roasted lamb cutlets with fresh figs served with smoked feta, mint and chickpea couscous (R110), grain fed beef fillet medallions (300g) served with rosemary potato rostis (R115), as well as chicken, feta and spinach roulade (R85), are equally as appealing.
Vegetarians can also be accommodated.
Desserts include mixed berry sorbet in lace pancakes (R40) and Cape brandy pudding (R35). For the more savoury tooth Rijk's famous cheese platter of local cheeses with fresh seasonal fruit (R75) is a good bet, or a coconut and sesame ice cream sandwich served with tropical fruit Carpaccio (R38) for the more adventurous.
Down to the smallest details
In the morning before breakfast we went for a mountain bike ride to explore the valley a little, and on our arrival back we found our car being washed. What a pleasure.
Breakfast included a continental breakfast with a homely spread of fresh fruit and pastries, followed by the full-on English breakfast with lots of hot coffee.
What made Rijk's so charming was that everything was thought out in detail. Small differences which set Rijk's apart, like service with a smile and little extras that you don't expect is what really make this experience unique. It's the ultimate in modern luxury in an exquisite old-world setting.
What a wonderful start to our holiday!
Rijk's Country house, Van Der Stel Street Ext, Winterhoek Road, Tulbagh Winelands, +27 23 230 1006 or reservations@rijkscountryhouse.co.za